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Thursday, August 29, 2013

The Magic of Turin: 7 Reasons to Visit

by Anne Supsic

Published on the Viator Travel Blog on August 29, 2013

Turin has never approached the popularity of top Italian tourist draws like Venice or Florence, but that undiscovered quality is just part of its charm. Turin, or Torino as the Italians call it, is an elegant city of arcaded streets and monumental squares, and on a clear day, the Alps gleam in the distance. But the magic doesn’t end there.

The world is supposedly composed of lines of energy and Turin is part of a triangle of white magic connecting with Lyon, France and Krakow, Poland. But Turin is also part of the black magic triangle that includes London and San Francisco making it the one city with a foot in both camps. Filled with both religious images and symbols of the occult, this truly is a city of good and evil.

Here are 7 reasons to take a magical mystery tour of Turin:

1. The Shroud


Shroud of Turin


The greatest symbol of white magic in the city is, of course, the revered Shroud of Turin. The actual shroud is kept hidden in a vault within Turin Cathedral; however, many copies of the Shroud are on display around town. The best one is the enlarged version of the face on the Shroud that is prominently displayed near the altar in the cathedral. A silent video plays constantly on large flat screens positioned nearby, providing a tutorial (in Italian subtitles) that explains how the Shroud was placed over the body and describes flaws in the Shroud, such as holes and burn marks from the fire of 1532 and stains from water damage over the years.

To really get the skinny on the Shroud, visit the Sindone Museum (sindone means shroud in Italian) run with great efficiency and heartfelt dedication by a team of sweet, little Italian ladies. The museum is careful to make no claims about the origin of the Shroud, but it is clear from all the evidence that the Man in the Shroud (as the museum refers to him) was crucified by the Romans. And the Shroud has been around for centuries, showing up repeatedly in paintings and other artifacts throughout the ages (a wonderful example of art supporting historical and scientific investigation). What is not clear is how the man’s image was imprinted on the Shroud. Scientists are still studying this phenomenon; their best guess is that it was the result of some kind of geologic radiation.
Visit the Holy Shroud

2. Arcades and Piazzas

Piazza Statuto

Turin is a great city for walking with about 12 miles of arcaded streets providing ornate, pillared porticos to protect pedestrians from the elements while shopping or just strolling the streets. The city is also filled with beautiful palaces and many graceful architectural features. Masonic and satanic symbols are said to be hidden in the structural designs, proof that Turin really is a city of both white and black magic.

When Napoleon conquered Turin in 1798, he envisioned a city of gardens and public spaces, and as usual, he got what he wanted. Turin has numerous piazzas — huge open spaces surrounded by impressive architecture like Piazza San Carlo with its historic cafes and Piazza Castello with its amazing baroque palaces.

One of the most interesting piazzas is Piazza Statuto said to lie at the apex of the black magic triangle. The piazza looks pretty tame with a tranquil park where locals push baby carriages and walk their dogs. However, the square was once a Roman necropolis, and a guillotine was hard at work here during the days of the French Revolution. The statue at the front of the square is also quite disturbing — a craggy pyramid draped with male figures in poses of great agony. The monument was dedicated to the miners who suffered and died while building the Frejus Rail Tunnel connecting Italy with France.

3. The Egyptian Museum

Egyptian Museum in Turin

Believe it or not, Turin has the largest collection of Egyptian artifacts outside of Cairo, some of which date back to 2000 BC. The Egyptian Museum offers a remarkable array of sarcophagi (some still holding dried up mummies), canopic jars that held the mummy’s internal organs, actual papyrus, and a whole army of shawabti (doll-like figures placed in tombs to perform agricultural work in the afterlife so the deceased could take it easy)
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One room contains the treasures from an unplundered tomb, a rarity in itself since tomb robbers seem to find their way into all the Egyptian tombs. Kha and Merit were a wealthy, but non-royal couple whose tomb was filled with an assortment of belongings: a board game similar to checkers, dried up bread (that has held up pretty well over the millennia), and even an early western-style toilet. The best room of all is the Statuary Hall; a dark room lined with enough well-lit statues of pharaohs, Egyptian gods, and sphinxes to make you forget you are in Italy!

4. Mole Antonelliana

Mole Antonelliana


The graceful 547-foot tower called Mole Antonelliana is the symbol of Turin, much like the Eiffel Tower is the symbol of Paris. It was the highest brick building in the world when it was completed in 1889 and offers stunning views of red rooftops, many historical buildings, and the Po River which flows nearby.

The Mole is also home to the Cinema Museum (Museo Nazionale del Cinema) with exhibits on the history of cinema from shadow puppets and simple optical tricks to Edison’s first attempts at making moving pictures. Other displays include clips from a variety of movies, a copy of the original screenplay for The Godfather, and Marilyn Monroe’s bustier!

5. Home of the Fiat

Fiat in Turin

Lingotto is an area south of the city center that was once the headquarters for car manufacturer Fiat. The sprawling former Fiat factory has been turned into a giant shopping complex that also houses an art museum called Pinacoteca Giovanni Marella Agnelli. The small but significant collection includes several paintings by Canaletto, some colorful Matisse canvases, and a lovely Renoir. Nearby, the multi-story food emporium ‘Eataly’ offers the best edibles of Italy, including entire aisles devoted to pasta and bread sticks.

Turin was once known as the ‘Detroit of Italy’ and its car building heritage lives on in the Automobile Museum (Museo Nazionale dell’Automobile). This museum explores the history of the automobile along with a jaw-dropping collection of Ferraris and Alpha Romeos. A video collection of car commercials is also fun with early commercials such as an Oldsmobile sing-a-long (just follow the bouncing ball) called ‘Me and my Merry Oldsmobile.’

6. Temptations of Turin

Temptations of Turin

The gastronomic temptations of Turin are buono non basta (goodness non-stop) with an array of gelaterias and the most alluring old chocolate shops loaded with only the finest of goodies. All of which seem to magically appear around every corner. Don’t miss Turin’s sweet-tooth specialty: a luscious combination of chocolate and hazelnut paste called giandujotto.

Another special treat in Turin are aperitivos. Much like tapas in Spain, aperitivos are served in bars during the pre-dinner Happy Hour. However, rather than paying by the individual plates as you do in Spain, in Turin one small charge (usually about 8€) buys a generous drink plus all the aperitivos you can eat. It’s like a tapas smorgasbord!

7. Easy Day Trips



The list of day trip possibilities from Turin is long and varied. A rack railway accesses the scenic Basilica di Superga, the hill-top tomb of the Savoy kings with incredible views of the city below. Another easy option is the Venaria Palace (La Venaria Reale), a sumptuous baroque palace with magnificent gardens.

Forays into the Piedmont will satisfy even the most discerning wine connoisseur. Trains connect to the famous wine towns of Alba and Asti with plentiful opportunities to taste Barolo, known as ‘the wine of kings, the king of wines.’ Even the city of Milan beckons: her elegant cathedral and da Vinci’s Last Supper are only a short (45-minute) train ride away.

Wednesday, July 3, 2013

Behind the Scenes Tour at the Eiffel Tower

by Anne Supsic

Published on the Viator Travel Blog on June 27, 2013

For me, a visit to Paris is never complete without a view of the Eiffel Tower, and this time, I decided to take a closer look at my favorite Parisian monument on a behind the scenes tour at the Eiffel Tower. Fittingly, our tour began at the base of the tower in front of a statue of the man who created all the excitement: Gustave Eiffel.

Gustave Eiffel, the man who started it all

I had scheduled an evening tour, and as our small group of ten walked to the green expanse of Champ de Mars, the Eiffel Tower suddenly came alive with 350 projectors bathing the legendary tower in golden light. It’s hard to believe now, but this iconic structure was not well-received initially. When the tower was first constructed for the 1889 Universal Exhibition, it was considered an eyesore and was scheduled to be demolished. Gustave Eiffel convinced the city that the tower had scientific value and bolstered his case by cleverly emblazoning the names of prominent French scientists and engineers all around the first level of the tower.

Entering the hidden, underground bunker
The average tourist would never even notice the entrance to the underground bunker, but our tour guide, Emanuel, led us down an obscure stairway into a hidden room below. The bunker is a well-kept secret — in fact, this tour has only been available for the last 8 years because prior to that, the underground space was not suitable for public access. The bunker was an important asset during WWI, housing critical telegraphic equipment. Strangely enough, the bunker now serves as a food locker for the Jules Verne restaurant, the Eiffel Tower’s famous second floor eatery. All the food has to be sent up to ground level via elevator, trucked over to the east pillar of the tower, and then it rides up a special Eiffel elevator to the restaurant.

The effervescent Eiffel!

It is no easy feat to keep the Eiffel Tower in top condition. The tower must be repainted every 7 years requiring about 60 tons of highly durable paint! And the tower is constantly being updated to maintain that ‘wow’ factor. Twenty thousand twinkling lamps were added to the Eiffel in the year 2000 to celebrate the new millennium. These sparklers were supposed to be temporary, but Parisians loved the effects so much (and complained so bitterly about their proposed removal) that the twinkling remained and occurs for five minutes at the top of every after-dark hour. To provide even more thrills for tourists visiting the Eiffel Tower, construction is currently underway to add a new level featuring a see-through glass floor.

Inside the Engine Room
Next, Emanuel led us into the engine room to see the unique hydraulic elevators with their pulley/cable system that moves visitors safely up and down the tower. By the way, these elevators do a lot of hoisting: 7 million people visited the Eiffel in 2010. When Germany occupied Paris during WWII, Hitler wanted to see the view from the top, but as Emanuel gleefully described, the French had sabotaged the elevators so Adolf would have to walk all the way up!


Private viewing area atop the Jules Verne restaurant

Our last stop was a private viewing area above the Jules Verne restaurant on the second floor. Here we enjoyed fabulous views of the city (and the guilty pleasure of bypassing all those people waiting in line). As I was leaving, the tower started twinkling with its now-famous effervescent lights. It was as if the Eiffel Tower were saying, ‘Merci et au revoir!’

A view of nighttime Paris




Saturday, June 1, 2013

7 Reasons to Roam Romania

by Anne Supsic

Published on the Viator Travel Blog on May 31, 2013

Hand-pitched haystacks of the Maramures

As prices in Western Europe continue to rise, the cheaper countries of the continent gain more and more appeal. One of the most fascinating is Romania, a country with much more to offer than just the legend of that guy with the long eye teeth.

Romania is a place where the harshness of the recent past, dominated by oppression and injustice, is juxtaposed with the timeless charm of ancient medieval towns, beautiful castles, interesting beaches, and a genuine peasant culture that has all but disappeared from most of the world. Here are seven reasons to roam Romania:


1. Maramures



Horse-drawn wooden cart in Maramures

In the rural region of Maramures, peasants continue to work the land as they have for hundreds of years. The fields are dotted with hand-pitched haystacks, and the favored transportation method is a horse-drawn wooden cart. This region is a modern-day ‘Brigadoon’ — the legendary village, made famous in a Lerner and Loewe musical that remained unchanged because it only appeared for one day every 100 years. The hottest local activity is the weekly Animal Market where everything a peasant could want is for sale including fresh produce, kitchen pots, furniture, clothing, shoes, and squealing piglets.

For a closer look at the peasant lifestyle, you can stay in one of the many charming guesthouses where your hosts will treat you like family (and ply you with local specialties). Every meal is sure to be a culinary adventure from the incomparably creamy polenta called mamaliga to an assortment of delicious soups. Everything is made from scratch using the freshest local ingredients: baskets of just-baked bread, extra spicy pickles fermented with horseradish, featherweight crepes served with homemade jam, and a traditional home-brew called palinka (plum brandy) that will definitely cure what ails you. Your greatest challenge will be how to avoid offending your generous hosts and still manage to fit into your clothes!


2. Simpler Times



Romanian woman tending livestock

Rural Romania offers a glimpse of a simpler time, and the sweet Merry Cemetery is a perfect example. In this very colorful cemetery, each hand-painted, bright blue cross displays a likeness of the deceased along with a poignant personal epitaph. The bright colors are intended to remind us that death is not a sorrowful thing but a new beginning, and each epitaph begins with the reassuring words of the dead person, ‘I am relaxing here…’

The delightful Popa Museum explores peasant traditions with a remarkable collection of local artifacts including many peculiar-looking masks. In traditional Romanian villages, it was considered bad form to gossip or to criticize your neighbors. However on one day of the year, ‘the gates of heaven opened,’ and people were allowed to tell each other the unpleasant truth. To encourage full disclosure, the ‘advice’ was given from behind the anonymity of a mask. So once a year, the entire village donned masks and let loose, telling each other what they really thought. The intention was that people would learn and improve, but you have to wonder how many hurt feelings (and personal grudges) resulted.


3. Medieval Towns



View of Sighisoara

Romania offers some of Europe’s best preserved medieval towns, including the walled citadels of the Saxons who came to Transylvania during the mid 1100s from the German state of Saxony. One of the most beautiful of these towns is Sighisoara, a 16th c. jewel of winding cobblestone streets and defensive towers like the famous Clock Tower that offers incredible views over this atmospheric old town. Sighisoara’s most famous home boy is none other than Vlad Tepes (Vlad the Impaler). Vlad ruled the province from 1456 to 1462 and inspired Bram Stoker to create fiction’s most famous vampire, the ever popular Dracula.

Another example of Saxon ingenuity is the perfectly situated medieval town of Brasov surrounded on three sides by scenic mountains and protected by sturdy ramparts. The town’s central square is one of Romania’s finest, and the picturesque pedestrian-only Republicii street is lined with colorful old merchant houses. Brasov was once an important trading stop between the Ottoman Empire and Western Europe, and its massive Black Church displays an impressive collection of Turkish carpets. Hanging from every conceivable niche inside of the church, these incongruous decorations were donated by grateful merchants – happy survivors of the journey over the dangerous bear-infested Carpathian Mountains.


4. History at its Harshest



Inside the former prison at the
Memorial of Anticommunist Victims

Until recently, the modern history of Romania has been a sad story of domination, first by the Soviet Union and later by the dictator Nicolae Ceausescu. The dark side of Romania can be fully explored at the Memorial of Anticommunist Victims in Sighetu Marmatiei. Here is just one small example of the kind of oppression suffered by the Romanian people. In those bad old days, owning a typewriter required a special permit and permits were given only to those who needed a typewriter to do their jobs. But it didn’t end there. Every year, each typewriter owner had to submit a designated text typed on their typewriter which was kept on file, so that it could be used like fingerprints to identify the source of any subversive pamphlets or documents!

A visit to the ostentatious Parliamentary Palace in Bucharest exposes the megalomania of Nicolae Ceausescu. This marble-covered monstrosity, the so-called ‘people’s palace,’ cost over 3 billion euros — a ridiculous outlay, especially during a time when many Romanians were starving. The main ballroom was originally intended to feature a painting of Nicolae at one end and a painting of his wife Elena at the other. But Nicolae, being a modest fellow, decided to replace Elena’s painting with a mirror (that would, of course, reflect the painting of himself). A fitting bit of poetic justice is that many palace meeting rooms are now named for revolutionaries who played a part in bringing the brutal dictator down.


5. Dracula and Queen Marie



Castle Bran, aka Dracula's Castle

Dracula and Queen Marie, one of the best-loved queens of Europe, make a very odd couple, and yet their stories converge at popular Bran Castle. Although the castle seems like the perfect lair for a vampire, with a secret passageway that some say Dracula used to sneak out after dark, the bloodthirsty Count never even spent a night here. However that did not stop local entrepreneurs who for many years cashed in on the infamous legend. The site is still known as ‘Dracula’s Castle,’ and vendors still line the main entranceway hawking Dracula t-shirts, fake fangs, and strings of garlic.

Today, the focus of a visit to Bran Castle is on Queen Marie who lived here in the 1920’s. Queen Marie was one of the most extraordinary women of her time, a legendary beauty and a darling of the press who many have compared with Britain’s Princess Diana. As the granddaughter of Queen Victoria, Marie certainly had the proper pedigree, but she also had a down-to-earth style, and much like Princess Di, was adored by her people. In fact, the people of Romania gave her Bran Castle as a sign of their appreciation. It is one of the can’t-miss destinations in Eastern Europe.


6. Timeless Achievement



Painted monastery at Voronet

Romania has more than her share of manmade wonders including the fabled wooden churches of Maramures with their scalloped shingles and towering Gothic spires made entirely of wood. Inside, the church walls are decorated with faded, unsophisticated paintings by local talent, exemplifying a simple devotion that perfectly matches the people who live here. In nearby Bucovina, the famous 15th century painted monasteries are a bit more showy with intensely colored frescoes inside and out.

These remarkably well-preserved 15th c. paintings depict many popular Bible stories as well as frighteningly detailed visions of the last judgment. A typical day of reckoning scene shows sinners (political enemies such as the Turks are always at the front of the line) being heaved into a red river of fire by a grinning devil.


7. Painted Eggs and Cabbages




Intricately designed hand-painted eggs
A visit to Romania is all about simple pleasures like a stop in the small village of Milisauti, known as ‘cabbage town’ because of its prolific cabbage crop. We had never seen so many cabbages in one place — literally mountains of cabbage piled on wooden wagons surrounded by a constant stream of customers stocking up by the sack full.

You can also try your hand at the painstaking craft of egg decorating. This marvel of reverse engineering is not as easy as it looks. Designs are created with hot wax applied to the egg using a special ‘pencil’ with a narrow metallic spike. The wax preserves each previous color as the egg is dipped into a sequence of dyes: yellow, red, and black. The best moment comes at the very end when the wax layers are removed and the colorful design magically appears.

If you are lucky, you can even bum a ride on a farmer’s wooden cart. Just be careful you don’t end up in the middle of a field with a scythe in your hands!



-Photos and writing by Anne Supsic