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Friday, December 23, 2011

BootsnAll Best Article Honors


Today, BootsnAll published their "Top 10 Best Articles of 2011" and my article "12 of the World's Most Fascinating Cemeteries" is at #4!

Friday, October 14, 2011

12 of the World's Most Fascinating Cemeteries

by Anne Supsic

Published on BootsnAll.com on October 13, 2011

Burial is the oldest of human rituals. From simple stone dolmens to the glory of the pyramids, humans have spent a lot of time and energy providing the deceased with a decent send-off. Basic or bombastic, cemeteries tell us how people died, but also...

Human beings have honored their dead since the dawn of time – even Neanderthals buried the fallen. In fact, burial is the oldest of human rituals. From simple stone dolmens to the glory of the pyramids, humans have spent a lot of time and energy providing the deceased with a decent send-off.

Modern cemeteries run the gamut from park-like settings with simple gravestones to elaborate cities of the dead with architecture rivaling buildings designed for the living. Basic or bombastic, cemeteries tell us how people died, but also how they lived.

Here are some of the most fascinating cemeteries on earth:


Père Lachaise — Paris



With over 70,000 burial places, Père Lachaise is Paris’s largest cemetery and one of the world’s most famous graveyards. Established in 1804, this is a true city of the dead with tree-lined avenues and clearly posted street names — a hauntingly beautiful place with expressive sculptures at every turn and lanes of ornate, side-by-side mausoleums. As you would expect, Père Lachaise is home to scores of the rich and famous including Oscar Wilde, the star-crossed lovers Abelard and Heloise, and musical talents like Chopin, Edith Piaf, and Jim Morrison. But it also houses the strangely popular grave of Victor Noir.

Victor, whose real name is Yvan Salman, was a French journalist who adopted the debonair “Victor Noir” as his pen name. Unfortunately, he was killed in a duel with Pierre Bonaparte, a great-nephew of the Emperor Napoleon. To make circumstances even more poignant, Victor is said to have died the day before he was to be married.

In death, Monsieur Noir has become something of a fertility god known for his special powers. According to one romantic legend, a woman who kisses Victor’s cold lips and slips a flower into his upturned top hat will find a husband by the end of the year. Other more down-to-earth fables involve rubbing his well-endowed (and well-worn!) nether regions for a boost in your sex life. For some reason the tips of his shoes have been rubbed shiny also. Maybe skittish visitors go the shoe route?

The lewd activity surrounding Victor even drew the attention of the Parisian authorities. In 2004, a fence was erected to protect Victor, but following a public outcry, the barrier was removed, and Victor’s charms are once again accessible to all.

>> Read more about the cemeteries of Paris


La Recoleta – Buenos Aires




La Recoleta,located in a classy Buenos Aires neighborhood, is another elegant masterpiece of architecture for the afterlife. The wide pathways (which are often patrolled by resident cats) are lined with mausoleums noteworthy for their variety of styles: cathedral, art nouveau, and modernistic boxes that one guide described as “ATM-style.” This cemetery is also known for its eclectic symbols including a menorah with a cross, lots of Masonic pyramids, and even some statues of pagan gods. Although Eva Peron is the most famous resident, the most tragic story belongs to Rufina Cambaceres who was buried alive here.

On the day of her 19th birthday, Rufina discovered that her mother was sleeping with Rufina’s boyfriend. A stunned Rufina fell into a catatonic state and was declared dead by two physicians (called to the scene by her mother). The poor girl was buried but woke up screaming and clawing at her casket. By the time a cemetery guard discovered the cracked lid on her coffin, she had died (for real) of a heart attack. Talk about “Mommie Dearest!”



Suicide and Banzai Cliffs — Saipan






The Suicide and Banzai Cliffs on Saipan are the scene of a historic tragedy that took place during WWII. In June of 1944, American forces took Saipan from the Japanese in a battle that was crucial to ending the war in the Pacific. In fact, the Enola Gay, the plane that dropped the atomic bomb on Hiroshima, flew out of the tiny island of Tinian located almost adjacent to Saipan. The appropriately named Suicide and Banzai Cliffs are covered with memorials marking the places where thousands of Japanese civilians, including parents and children, leaped to their deaths.

What triggered this mass suicide? Initially, it was thought that the Japanese civilians were afraid of being tortured or killed by the occupying American troops. However, the real reason was Emperor Hirohito’s directive that no Japanese must ever be captured by the enemy or they would no longer be considered Japanese.



God’s Acre – Bethlehem, Pennsylvania





This cemetery with the charming name dates back to the mid-1700’s when the Moravians, a Protestant denomination originating in Eastern Europe, first settled in what is now the city of Bethlehem. The most striking thing about this cemetery is the placement of the tomb stones: small flat tablets, all laid flush with the earth. A devoutly religious people, the Moravians designed their cemetery to reflect their belief that everyone is equal in life and in death. To prove the point, the cemetery contains graves of Europeans émigrés, African American slaves, and Native American Indians — including an Indian named Tshoop who may have been the inspiration for James Fenimore Cooper’s The Last of the Mohicans.

Another odd fact about this restful place concerns the practice of burying the dead with members of their “choir.” In the early days of the community, Moravians had a unique lifestyle revolving around choirs — groupings based on age, gender, and marital status such as the Single Sisters, the Married Men, and the Widows choirs. The choir was the most important structure in their lives: choirs worshiped together, lived together in separate houses, and were even buried together as you can see among the oldest graves.

Inquiring minds (you know who you are) may wonder how couples got together if married men and women lived in separate choirs. The answer is as simple as it is practical: a clever reservation-only arrangement called the conjugal room. To learn more about life in the early Moravian community visit The Moravian Museum just around the corner.


Okuno-in Cemetery – Mt. Koya, Japan




Okuno-in is located in Mount Koya, a sacred village with more than 120 Buddhist temples. The best time to visit this atmospheric cemetery is at dusk when stone lanterns line the winding paths leading the way through a stone forest of pillars and statues – many carved in the typical Buddha seated position. Follow the paths to Lantern Hall where it is said that one lantern has burned continuously for 1,000 years.

This cemetery’s most famous resident is Kobo Daishi, the founder of Shingon Buddhism, and one of the most revered religious figures in Japan. Many believe that he is just resting here waiting to be reborn, and thousands have been buried here with him, hoping to join in his rebirth.

The graveyard also contains hundreds of statues of Jizo, one of the most beloved of the Japanese deities. Jizo is represented by a sweet-faced child monk and is a protector of women and children (especially those who have died). In Japanese folklore, Jizo hides the children in his robes, to protect them from demons, and guides them to salvation. This is a touching story, but it is heart wrenching to see the Jizo statues wearing children’s clothing, such as little bibs or caps, placed there by grieving parents.

Many Buddhist monasteries offer temple lodging for tourists, and a night with the monks is a highlight of any visit to Mt. Koya.


American Cemetery — Luxembourg




Nothing is more poignant than military cemeteries on foreign soil. Outside the city of Luxembourg at the American Cemetery, a sea of white crosses honors over 5,000 U.S. soldiers who made the ultimate sacrifice here in WWII. Many of the dead lost their lives in 1944 during the Battle of the Bulge – Hitler’s last major offensive and last ditch attempt to salvage the Reich. The German army created a bulge in the Allies’ line, but they were unable to break through. 600,000 Americans fought in this battle making it the largest American engagement of the war, and nearly 80,000 Americans were killed, captured, or maimed.

The Third Army, led by General George S. Patton, played a pivotal role in crushing the German advance. Never known for his modesty, Patton described the battle this way: “It is in my opinion the outstanding achievement of the war.” The Battle of the Bulge was Patton’s finest hour, and when he died on December 21, 1945, he was buried here at the front of the cemetery, facing the other graves so that he can gaze upon his former troops forever.

>> Check out our Luxembourg travel guide


British Cemetery – Bayeux, France




Bayeux is home to the largest British WWII cemetery in France. Located near the Normandy beaches, most of those who are remembered here died during the D-Day Invasion. This cemetery feels decidedly British with colorful English flowers growing in small garden patches by each of the graves. The headstones are engraved with personal messages chosen by relatives — simple, heartfelt epitaphs like this one: “We often speak your name, but all we have to treasure is your picture in a frame.”

In Europe, memories go way back, and the British couldn’t resist a jab at the French. The colonnaded Bayeux Memorial contains a carved message referencing William the Conqueror, who invaded England in 1066. The translation of the Latin reads: “We, once conquered by William, have now set free the Conqueror’s native land.” To learn more about the Norman Conquest of 1066 take a look at the magnificent Bayeux Tapestry nearby.

>> Check out other World War II sites in England and France or read more about visiting Normandy


La Cambe German Cemetery – Bayeux, France




The atmosphere at La Cambe could not be more different from the British Cemetery nearby. This is a melancholy place where over 21,000 German dead are marked by scattered groupings of somber, squat gray crosses and small plaques, each one impersonally shared by two soldiers. These plaques display neither rank nor division (to maintain the anonymity of the SS). A pall of defeat still hangs heavy in the air.

In the center of the graveyard on a small hill, one large cross is flanked by two sad figures representing the parents of the dead. The sculpture adds a touch of humanity to the depressing atmosphere. And the words on a sign at the entrance remind us of who paid the price for Hitler’s ambition: “…it is a graveyard for soldiers not all of whom had chosen either the cause or the fight.”

German cemeteries were not popular in countries once occupied by the Nazis. In fact, many of these countries begrudged giving land to their former enemy, and German cemeteries were often neglected, even desecrated. Today, the care of the cemeteries is entrusted to The German Society for War Graves Care, a private organization relying solely on contributions and volunteer help. During the summer months, you can sometimes see German school children tending the graves, reminding us all the importance of learning from the past.


Don-Rak Cemetery – Kanchanaburi, Thailand




The peaceful Don-Rak Cemetery, with its low-lying stones and colorful flowers, conceals a terrible past. Almost 7,000 WWII POWs are buried in this Thai cemetery located west of Bangkok near the border with Myanmar — primarily British, Australian, Dutch and other “soldiers known only to God.” These POWs were the victims of a brutal Japanese railroad building project made famous in the 1957 movie The Bridge on the River Kwai. Actual conditions on the Death Railway were much worse than the movie portrayed — a lethal combination of a near starvation diet and an unforgiving jungle environment. Plus, the Japanese were obsessed with something they called “The Speedo Plan,” mercilessly driving the POWS to meet absurd deadlines. More than 70% died, mostly from starvation and cholera. Historians calculate that 38 POWs died for every kilometer of railway track laid.

The dead were originally buried in makeshift gravesites all along the railway line. Strangely, the Japanese displayed more respect for the dead than the living, and they permitted the POWS to conduct funerals and burials. This gave the prisoners an opportunity to bury records of their ordeal with the bodies. After the war, the remains were relocated to Don Rak Cemetery, and the buried documents, detailing horrible atrocities, were uncovered. To learn more visit the Thailand-Burma Railway Centre Museum across the street from the cemetery.



St. Louis Cemetery #1 – New Orleans




Known for its unique above-ground tombs, St. Louis #1is the oldest (1789), and possibly the creepiest cemetery in New Orleans. The dead have to be buried above ground here because of the high water table. Locals learned this the hard way when caskets buried underground had an annoying habit of popping up to the surface during a heavy rain.

This cemetery is one of the densest of burial places, housing over 100,000 bodies in just one square block. The tombs are specifically designed to handle many generations. When more space is required, the oldest corpse is simply dumped into a communal pit at the bottom of the crypt where the hot New Orleans summers are said to bring about a slow cremation.

Black magic fills the air by the grave where voodoo priestess Marie Laveau is believed to be buried. Famous for her “mojo” hands, Marie became the most powerful woman in New Orleans, selling her charms and potions to politicians worried about winning elections and to the lovesick from all over town. You can summon Marie’s assistance to make your own wish come true by knocking three times and marking her tomb with XXX. An offering also helps.

To stock up on some voodoo supplies for home use, you can visit Marie Laveau’s House of Voodoo for blessed chicken feet or maybe an all-purpose, handmade voodoo doll. Just beware – some visitors to the shop say they felt Marie’s icy fingers on their shoulders!



Arlington National Cemetery – near Washington, DC




More than 300,000 are buried in Arlington National Cemetery overlooking Washington, D.C. Famous sights include The Tomb of the Unknowns, the Eternal Flame at JFK’s grave, and the Lockerbie Memorial Cairn, a gift from the people of Scotland in remembrance of the 270 passengers and crew who died in the terrorist bombing of Pan Am Flight 103. But few visitors realize that Arlington House was once the much loved home of Robert E. Lee.

Arlington House was actually owned by Mrs. Lee, and the family lived here for 30 years until Lee resigned his commission in the Union Army and reported to Richmond to fight for the Confederacy. During the Civil War, his home was confiscated when the Lees failed to pay $92 in property taxes. At that time, taxes had to be paid in person, and for obvious reasons, Mrs. Lee was unable to make an appearance in Washington. To discourage that “Rebel Lee” from ever returning, graves of fallen Union soldiers were placed all around the house and even on the edge of Mrs. Lee’s rose garden.

The General never set foot in his home again, but his eldest son later sued the government claiming that the property had been illegally confiscated. The Supreme Court agreed, and on March 3, 1883, the U.S. Congress paid $150,000 to purchase the estate. Today, Arlington House is dedicated to the memory of Robert E. Lee – proof that old wounds can heal.


Kalavryta – Peloponnese Peninsula, Greece




One of the most heartbreaking cemeteries in the world is the one in Kalavryta where so many of the graves carry the same date of death: December 13, 1943. This is the day when the Nazis descended on the town in a murderous act of vengeance.

The Resistance had been active in the area, resulting in the death of several German soldiers. In retaliation, German troops ordered all the male residents of Kalavryta, men and boys aged 12 years and up, to gather in a field just outside the village. Once they were assembled, hidden machine guns mowed them down. Afterwards, the Nazis burned the village to the ground.

Today, Kalavryta is an attractive village of traditional homes with good skiing in the winter. The town is also famous as the final destination on the scenic Odontotos Railway. However, sadness still pervades the town. The cathedral was rebuilt after the massacre, but the clock remains eerily fixed at 2:34 – the time, as a plaque explains, “when the lament began.”


Sunday, September 18, 2011

Repositioning cruise: bargain of the sea

BY ANNE E. SUPSIC
SPECIAL TO THE MIAMI HERALD

Published in The Miami Herald on September 18, 2011


For years, I had dreamed of crossing the Atlantic in a mighty ocean liner. For me, a transatlantic voyage conjures up visions of women in ballroom gowns gliding across gleaming hardwood promenades on the arms of men in top hats.

Today’s cruises may be more about spa treatments and the rock-climbing wall, but the romantic notion of a journey across the sea persists.

A repositioning cruise can make that dream come true at a bargain price. Twice a year, in spring and fall, cruise ships of the world undertake a great migration, following the sun like snowbirds flying south for the winter. The most popular repositioning cruises take place between Europe and America on ships that ply the Mediterranean in the summer and ferry passengers around the Caribbean during the winter. Anxious to fill cabins on these necessary crossings, cruise lines offer some of their best deals.

To fulfill my fantasy, my husband and I chose a 14-day Celebrity Century cruise last year from Barcelona to Miami for the fire sale price of only $65 a day per person (including port charges and fees). Not bad for an all-inclusive package covering accommodations, food, entertainment, transportation, and some unusual ports of call.

Long considered a drawback of the repositioning cruise, one-way flights are not nearly as elusive or expensive as they once were. Bargain hunters to the core, we flew Virgin Air to London followed by a low-cost Easy Jet flight to Barcelona for less than $400 a person. We also added a few days in London to stroll along the Thames, down warm beer in the pubs, and catch a show in the West End.

Repositioning cruises start or finish in some of Europe’s most intriguing cities including Venice, Athens and Lisbon. Barcelona was high on our travel to-do list, so we spent a leisurely pre-cruise week in this multifaceted city where splendid modernisme architecture, narrow medieval streets, and laidback beaches are all within walking distance.

Of course, I did wonder if the romance might wear off as I spent day after day at sea with no port stops to break the monotony. My typical travel style is more of a high energy, cultural immersion experience, and I told friends this would be a first: a vacation where I’d be forced to relax! But I was secretly looking forward to a peaceful change of pace.

Our cruise got off to an uncertain start. Our ship was just coming out of dry dock after repairs for rudder problems that had interrupted the cruise before ours. We were not the only passengers to wonder whether the ship was seaworthy enough for a trip across the Atlantic.

The lights of Barcelona slipped away as we glided out into the Med, and once we were underway, my worries evaporated like the water droplets on my cabin porthole. I learned that engineers from Lloyds of London had come aboard to verify the safety of their investment. If Lloyds was satisfied, so was I.

Ports of call

Our first port was the Spanish mainland city of Malaga. I had fairly low expectations, but I was thoroughly charmed by this Moorish city with the Med on its doorstep and craggy mountains in its backyard. The Moors occupied the city for 700 years and left behind an 11th century Alcazaba — a fortification — graced with keyhole arches and tranquil Alhambra-like reflecting pools.

Our ship passed through the Strait of Gibraltar where, at its narrowest point, Europe and Africa are separated by a mere eight miles. Like a massive black ghost ship, “The Rock” loomed alongside us as we entered the Atlantic Ocean and navigated towards islands off the African coast.

Our first island stop was Portuguese Madeira where I had arranged a private tour with Daniel’s Taxi, and Daniel himself showed us the sights. Madeira is called the flower island and it’s easy to see why. Hibiscus, hydrangea, belladonna, and bougainvillea bloom everywhere, and huge poinsettia trees grow wild along the roadside.

For lunch, Daniel recommended a local specialty: a fish called espada. “What makes the espada unique,“ Daniel explained, “is that this fish comes from 3,000 feet below the sea and is only caught in two places in the world: here in Madeira and off the coast of Japan.” Our espada, grilled with bananas and followed by a glass of sweet local wine, made a perfect Madeira lunch.

Our last port stops were on two of Spain’s seven Canary Islands: Tenerife and La Palma. Both islands offered quaint architecture and plenty of natural beauty. On La Palma, a little isle dotted with pastel houses, we hiked the rim of the San Antonio volcano, then rewarded ourselves with a glass of sweet Malmsey wine.

The open sea

Sailing across the Atlantic takes time — seven days, to be exact. My husband dreaded this part of the trip thinking that he would be terribly bored. No danger of that. Our ship provided a nonstop schedule of activities including enrichment courses on art history and the evolution of western music. Plus mental tune-ups at psychology lectures, cooking classes, and dance lessons. It was like taking half a dozen adult education courses in one week!

A behind-the-scenes tour of the galleys revealed how seafaring chefs prepare more than 9,000 meals a day. Quite a feat involving more than 1,700 dozen eggs, 1,400 pounds of chicken, and 45,000 pounds of fresh fruit. Imagine the logistics of managing that grocery shopping list!

“All the imperishable items as well as fish and meat (purchased from the U.S. to meet U.S. standards) were loaded onto the ship in Barcelona,” explained Executive Chef Claudio de Carlo. “Then we topped up with fresh fruit in Tenerife.” With so many tempting food choices, our biggest cruise challenge was avoiding major weight gain.

Sea days were also a chance for some pure relaxation. Life seems simpler surrounded by nothing but blue sea. To work off those extra calories, we braved the wind-whipped walking track and did our duty in the fitness center. Another favorite pastime was watching for flying fish. We were mesmerized by these little guys who shot up out of the water like miniature silver torpedoes and zoomed across the waves flapping their tiny “wings.”

Unfortunately, the glamour of yesteryear was in short supply, especially during the day, when guests adopted an “anything goes” attitude toward apparel, and the sun worshippers around the swimming pool tended toward overexposure. But the crew always looked sharp in their uniforms, and on the three formal nights, I was thrilled to see some couples dressed in gowns and tuxedoes floating down the carpeted stairs into the dining room.

Overall, our sailing was surprisingly smooth, although we did catch the tail end of Hurricane Tomas, who brought with him 10- to 12-foot waves. We never got seasick, but for two days, we lurched around the ship and felt as if we were sleeping on a roller coaster.

We bid farewell to The Century in Miami. It took us several days to get our land legs back. At unexpected moments, my knees would start to wobble, and I would feel as if the earth was moving under my feet. But soaking up the sun and admiring the Art Deco buildings of South Beach was a perfect antidote. Then with a short (and cheap) flight out of Miami, we were home in Pennsylvania again.

Repositioning was a delightful way to end our European vacation. And did I mention no jet lag? Rather than crossing a half dozen time zones in one night, we made the change gradually, one hour at a time. By cruising west, we gained an hour of sleep almost every other night. My idea of heaven!

Repositioning cruises

Most major cruise lines offer repositioning voyages, the bulk of them in October-November and April-May. A good source for schedules and ship choices is www.cruisetransatlantic.com. Also check with individual cruise lines or a travel agent.

Saturday, September 17, 2011

Word of Mouth

Published in Fodor's Beijing guidebook in 2011

"The Laoshe teahouse was fun with elaborate teas -- my tea looked
like a flower unfolding in my glass.  And they had a band playing live music on unusual old instruments."                                                              
-- Magster2005

Thursday, August 4, 2011

Travel Presentations

I have developed and presented the following programs:


"How to Become a Travel Writer"

This program covers everything you need to know to become a travel writer including the different types of travel articles, where to find story ideas, and how to mix writing with your traveling.  I also provide details on: researching and developing story ideas during your trip, formatting travel articles, and how to write effective queries to publishers.

Presentation Venue(s):

Black Diamond Writer's Network (August 2010)

"Around the World in 259 Days"

When we retired in 2005, we sold our house, our cars, and most of our personal belongings to travel around the world.  Discover how we planned this trip (all on our own), what we saw, and how it changed us.  Travel with us from the South Seas paradise of the Cook Islands, across New Zealand, and into the Australian Outback.  Learn about WWII history on Saipan, culture shock in Japan, and the joy of freewheeling travel as we traipse all over Europe -- staring awestruck at the Parthenon, hiking Italy’s Cinque Terre, and ending up in a Munich beer hall.

This program has broad appeal offering an entertaining mix of adventure, education, and humor along with amazing photography.

Presentation Venue(s):

Shawnee Ridge Retirement Community (June 2011)

Grace Park Retirement Community (July 2011)

Jewish Resource Center (August 2011)

Moravian Village Retirement Community (August 2011)


"How to Travel Anywhere in the World on Your Own"

It's easier than ever to travel almost anywhere in the world on your own.  Discover the benefits of independent travel and learn how to plan your trip of a lifetime.  Topics include:

·    Deciding where to go and what to see

·    A step-by-step process to plan the perfect trip

·    Favorite travel websites

·   Tips on topics such as how to meet the locals, what to pack, and the joys of public transportation

Presentation Venue(s):

Moravian College (October 2011)


"Broaden your Studies Abroad: Conquer Culture Shock and Explore the World on your Own"

Learn what to expect in a foreign country and how to make the most of your studies abroad opportunity.

·    How to prepare for culture shock

·    Tips on dealing with differences

·   Ideas on how to take your year abroad to the next level with independent travel

Presentation Venue(s):

Moravian College (October 2012

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

7 Prehistoric Sights You've Probably Never Heard Of

Published on BootsnAll.com on July 14, 2011

7 Prehistoric Sights You've Probably Never Heard Of
by Anne Supsic
July 14th, 2011

Long before the age of recorded history, man was hard at work building monuments, devising tools, and scratching out a living in a world where simple survival was the greatest challenge.  Thousands of years later, archaeologists continue to discover relics from this time — buildings, artifacts, and even human remains – that help us to envision what life was like for early humans.

Stonehenge will probably always be the #1 prehistoric site on everybody’s bucket list.  But the world is full of other underrated prehistoric attractions each with its own aura of mystery.  Some of these lesser knowns are overshadowed by grander (or better publicized) sights nearby.  Others are located off the typical tourist track requiring a little more effort to unearth. But all of them fill us with awe and help us feel connected to a very distant past.  Here are some of those unsung wonders:

Tarxien Temples and the Hypogeum – Malta



Believe it or not, the megalithic temples on the Mediterranean island of Malta are the oldest surviving free-standing structures in the world.  And the Tarxien Temples, dating from 3000- 2500 B.C., offer an excellent look at stately standing stones and portals that shelter inner chambers where priests performed sacred rites.


Intricate stonework is a highlight here.  A stone altar decorated with carvings of animals may have been used for animal sacrifice, and the lower portion of one of the statues affectionately known as the “fat ladies” presides over the ruins from her pedestal perch — a chubby fertility goddess wearing a demure pleated skirt.

Malta’s most acclaimed prehistoric site is just a 10- minute walk from the Tarxien Temples: a strange underground burial site, believed to hold 7,000 bodies, called the Hypogeum.  Entrance to the site is strictly regulated with only 60 people permitted to enter each day, and it is a real privilege to climb down into the elaborate subterranean chambers.  Working with primitive tools and little light, the ancient builders faithfully replicated the above-ground temples (like Tarxien) carving pillars and portals out of the solid rock.

The Mystery: No one knows much about these temple builders except that they were obviously part of a very sophisticated culture.  More importantly, no one understands why they abruptly stopped building their impressive temples and seemed to suddenly disappear.

The Tarxien Temples and the Hypogeum are an easy bus ride from Malta’s capital city of Valletta.  For a better understanding of the monuments (and for a look at lots of “fat lady” statues) visit the National Museum of Archaeology in Valletta.

Mycenae – Greece



This ancient Greek citadel, a former powerhouse of the Peloponnese, is located on a rocky hilltop affording views out over the plains.  Inhabited since 4,000 B.C., Mycenae immediately impresses with its massive stone walls and an elegant entranceway called the Lion Gate, considered one of Europe’s first monumental sculptures.


This is also a place steeped in myths and legends.  It was here that Agamemnon was murdered in his bathtub by his wife and her lover.  In fact, Mycenae only existed in the poems of Homer until 1874 when Heinrich Schliemann, a German amateur archaeologist who took Homer seriously, began excavating.

Today the site includes the fortified acropolis and the surrounding tombs.  Don’t miss the beehive-shaped Treasure of Atreus (aka the Tomb of Agamemnon) and bring a flashlight for a climb into the secret cistern that provided Mycenae with fresh water during lengthy sieges.

The Mystery: The stones used to build these fortifications are so large the Greeks described them as “cyclopean,” believing that only the mythological Cyclops could have maneuvered such huge stones.

Mycenae is located about 12 miles north of Nafplion.  Another worthwhile prehistoric site in the area is the fortress at Tiryns, also built with cyclopean walls.

  
Otzi the iceman – Italy




Eerily well-preserved, Otzi the iceman is on display at the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology in Bolzano, Italy.  A small window provides a look inside the special room where high-tech temperature control prevents Otzi from deteriorating.  The iceman was discovered in 1991 by two German tourists hiking in the Otzal Alps.  In that desolate location, snow and ice had protected him for 5300 years, leaving his skin and even his internal organs intact.

Just as fascinating as the iceman himself are his clothes and his extensive toolkit.  Otzi’s most valuable possession was a copper axe that suggests he may have been a warrior or a tribal leader.  Check out Otzi’s fashionable look: his hat, cape, leggings, shoes, and even his comfy goatskin underwear!  Finally, stand in front of the museum’s lifelike reconstruction of the iceman and get a good glimpse of a very real prehistoric man.

The Mystery: Initially, scientists believed Otzi died of natural causes or possibly froze to death.  However, x-rays have revealed the iceman was shot in the back with an arrow.  Clearly, Otizi’s death was a homicide. Like a prehistoric cold case file, theories about Otzi’s demise abound.  Was he the victim of attempted robbery (maybe somebody wanted that copper axe)?  Or did Otzi fall out of favor in a coup d’état – an ousted leader on the run who was tracked down and shot in the back?

Note that the entire South Tirol Museum of Archaeology is well worth a look (if you can tear yourself away from Otzi!).

Newgrange – Ireland




Newgrange sits on a ridge north of Dublin, Ireland near the Boyne River, an ancient monument 1,000 years older than Stonehenge.  When the Celts discovered Newgrange, they called it a “fairy mound,” and the site is literally a grassy mound that covers about an acre with a front wall of sparkling white quartz.


Access to the interior was originally blocked by an entrance stone, a stunning piece of megalithic art displayed at the front of the site.  The stone is carved with swirling spires that might represent the sun and the stars, offer a welcome, or perhaps contain a warning.  Enter along a 60-ft. passageway leading to an impressive corbelled vault.  This ancient vaulted ceiling has remained intact and waterproof for 5,000 years despite the fact that it was built without mortar — just stacked stone.  Newgrange has been described as a passage tomb, but it is more than just a burial place. It is believed to have been a house of worship, much like a prehistoric cathedral.

The Mystery: At dawn during the winter solstice, sunlight streams through an opening above the entrance, travels with remarkable accuracy along the passageway, and illuminates the entire chamber for about 17 minutes.  No one knows what significance this event held for the ancients.  The light may have symbolized life after death or maybe this was just a way to kick off the new year celebrations.

Two other prehistoric mound tombs can be visited near Newgrange: Knowth and Dowth

Cromeleque dos Almendres – Portugal





This sacred Portuguese sight is located in a secluded spot near the town of Evora in Central Portugal. Cromeleque dos Almendres is often called the “Portuguese Stonehenge,” but that is a classic case of overreaching.  The ancient stones are rather simple; the charm here is in the off-the-beaten-track location and the chance that you might have the place to yourself.


Arrival is via a dirt road, traveling past gnarly cork trees with convoluted branches that look like something out of the Forest of No Return.  One of the oldest stone circles in Europe, Cromeleque dos Almendres encompasses over 90 menhirs (standing stones).  The stones are positioned in a double circle, and several are carved with unusual drawings.

The Mystery: One stone stands out because its flat top is full of holes.  This dimpled stone may have been a tool used for astronomical observations, an altar for fertility rites, or some kind of game board (maybe an early version of Chinese checkers?).

The Evora area contains dozens of prehistoric sites including the Great Dolmen of Zambujeiro

Grauballe man – Denmark




Denmark’s Grauballe man is the star of the Moesgard Museum near Arhus.  He was discovered in 1952 by some local peat cutters, and at first, townspeople thought he was just a drunk who had fallen into the quicksand-like bog.  It turned out that he was the best-preserved Iron Age bog man ever discovered in Europe.

The special chemical composition of the bog water acted as a preservative keeping this 2,000 year-old man in exceptionally good shape.  Although his skin looks quite leathery in his dimly lit display case, his hands and feet are particularly intact – so well-defined that you could take his fingerprints. And he still has his hair!

When he died, the Grauballe man was about 30 years old, 5’ 7” tall, and in perfect health except for his teeth that show signs of periodontal disease (guess he forgot to floss).  Oh, and the fact that his throat was cut from ear to ear!

The Mystery: Bogs were often used to make sacrifices to the gods.  Considering the gruesome way he died and the fact that he was buried naked, the Grauballe man may have been a human sacrifice.

The Moesgard Museum is an easy bus ride from downtown Aarhus, Denmark’s second largest city. Museum admission also includes access to the Prehistoric Trail with reconstructed Viking homes.

Les Fontaines Sallees – France





Near Vezelay in the Burgundy region of France, the salt water springs of les Fontaines Sallees still lure visitors as they have since prehistoric times.  Back then, people were drawn here for the salt — a precious commodity that not only preserved food, but also inspired religious ceremonies, and was renowned for its medicinal properties, curing illnesses such as rheumatism and skin diseases.

The salt fountains are situated in a pleasant clearing accessed by a poorly-marked path.  Low-lying walls clearly delineate the circular temple of the Gauls, the holy place where Druid priests and priestesses once worshipped their water gods. T he spring was covered up hundreds of years ago to keep out salt smugglers and was only revealed in 1934 by a scholar chasing medieval legends.  The words of a troubadour ballad led him to this place — another case of legends leading to discoveries.

The Mystery: Over 4500 years ago, ancient people hollowed out oak trees forming wooden well casings to capture the prized, salty liquid.  Remarkably, their unique wells still remain, safeguarded by the minerals in the water. Inside these little wooden tubs, the sacred water hisses and bubbles as gases like nitrogen and helium rise to the surface.  Who knows what healing powers these waters may still hold?

For a look at prehistoric cave paintings visit Grottes d’Arcy-sur-Cure about 20 minutes north of Les Fontaines Sallees.

Photos provided by Frank Supsic and may not be used without permission except #1 - Michel27, by , #2 – by Templar1307, #3 – by Kennis © South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology, Augustin Ochsenreiter, #4 – by flicks-of-micks and #5 by PhillipC

Monday, April 18, 2011

Music to Our Ears

Published in Arthur Frommer's Budget Travel magazine Febuary 2011

When renting a car or an apartment equipped with a CD player, keep an eye out for CDs of local traditional tunes, like fado in Portugal or bouzouki music in Greece. We enjoy the homegrown ambience while we're traveling and take home the disks as souvenirs.  Anne Supsic, Saylorsburg, PA

Friday, February 18, 2011

10 Reasons to Take a Repositioning Cruise

Published on BootsnAll.com on February 16, 2011

10 Reasons to Take a Repositioning Cruise

by Anne Supsic
February 16, 2011

For years, I had dreamed of crossing the Atlantic in a mighty ocean liner like the Titanic (well, not exactly like the Titanic). In spite of that infamous sinking, a transatlantic voyage conjures up visions of women in ball gowns gliding across gleaming hardwood promenades on the arms of men in top hats. Today’s cruises may be more about spa services and scaling the rock climbing wall, but the romantic notion of a journey across the sea still persists.

A repositioning cruise can make that fantasy come true. Twice a year, in spring and fall, the cruise ships of the world undertake a great migration, following the sun like snowbirds flying south for the winter. The most popular repositioning cruises take place between Europe and America on ships that ply the Mediterranean in the summer and then ferry passengers around the Caribbean during the cold winter months.

Major cruise lines such as Celebrity, Holland America, and Princess offer a variety of these transatlantic voyages every year. Cruise length is typically 13-17 days, and the most popular months for repositioning are April, May, October, and November. For a complete listing of available cruises see www.cruisetransatlantic.com.

Here are 10 reasons why you should take a repositioning cruise now:

#1: Cruise value



Repositioning cruises offer some of the best bargains in the cruise industry. With cruise liners anxious to fill cabins for these necessary crossings, prices can be remarkably low. A transatlantic cruise can cost as little as $65/day/person (including port charges and fees). Not bad for an all-inclusive deal providing accommodations, food, entertainment, transportation, and some unusual ports of call!

#2: Cheap one-way flights


One-way flights were long considered a major downside of the repositioning cruise. However, one-way flights are not nearly as elusive (or expensive) as they once were. When you shop around for one-way flights don’t forget to consider Europe’s discount airlines. One inexpensive alternative is to pair a cheap one-way flight to London with a short hop on a European budget airline to your embarkation city. Also consider Iceland Express, a low-fare airline offering great one-way deals to Europe out of Newark, N.J.

#3: World class cities




Repositioning cruises begin or end in some of Europe’s finest cities creating the perfect complement to a European adventure. The two most popular routes connect either Rome or Barcelona with Florida, but the repositioning circuit also includes European wonders like Athens, Lisbon, and Venice. Wherever your itinerary takes you, make some time before or after your cruise to ogle modernisme architecture in Barcelona, experience Portuguese soul music in a Lisbon fado house, glide along on Venetian canal, or get lost in the antiquity of Athens or Rome.

#4: Exotic ports


Your repositioning cruise across the Atlantic will most likely stop at one or more of the exotic islands off the coast of Africa. Possibilities include Madeira Island, a floral wonder with unusual hiking trails called levadas; the Azores known for whale-watching and pineapple plantations; or one of Spain’s seven Canary Islands where the weather seems stuck in an eternal spring and dormant volcanoes add to the natural beauty. Other common ports include Malaga and Cadiz on Spain’s southern coast and Moroccan cities like Tangier and Casablanca.

#5: Relax at sea





Traveling across the ocean takes time, so plan on six or seven days at sea. Don’t worry about being bored – these ships offer more than enough activities to keep you busy. However, this is an ideal opportunity to unwind far away from any distractions. Life seems simpler surrounded by nothing but blue sea. For maximum pampering get a pedicure or a hot stone massage in the onboard spa. Walk the open decks, watch for flying fish, or grab a deck chair and curl up with a bestseller. You may even want to try that time-honored ship sport: shuffleboard!

#6: Enrichment


Most cruise lines offer extensive enrichment programs allowing you to expand your mind (while you struggle not to expand your waistline with all the tempting food choices on board). Learn about the glories of Florence in an art history class, get a mental tune-up in a psychology lecture, or trace the evolution of western music from Bach to Berlioz. Sound too serious for you? Then check out the cooking classes or get your samba on with some dance lessons. It’s like taking half a dozen adult education classes all in one week!

#7: Entertainment




Cruise ships offer all kinds of entertainment ranging from Bingo and trivia games to comedians and Broadway productions. Music lovers can choose between elegant Classical string quartets and raucous dance bands. If you’re feeling lucky, you can drop a few in the casino. Shopaholics can browse the shipboard bargains on art, jewelry, and booze. Or if you are exhausted from so many activities, you can watch a movie in the privacy of your own cabin.

#8: Florida sun


Florida is a frequent bookend of a repositioning cruise giving you the opportunity to soak up some sunshine in ports like Miami or Fort Lauderdale. Take a dip in the ocean, check out the Art Deco architecture of South Beach, or search for gators during an airboat ride in the Everglades. All are perfect ways to get into vacation mode at the start of your trip or enjoy one last fling before heading home.

#9: Back-to-back option





If you have the time, consider doing a back-to-back. In cruise lingo, a back-to-back is simply two cruises in a row. For example, you can sail across the Atlantic to Europe and then continue on that same ship for a Mediterranean cruise. Or top off your transatlantic voyage back home with an additional cruise island-hopping in the Caribbean. An added benefit is the price break you get on the combined cruises. Of course, you’ll need extensive time to be able to do so.

#10: No jet lag


One of the greatest benefits of cruising between continents is: no jet lag! Rather than crossing half a dozen time zones in one night, you make the change gradually, one hour at a time. By cruising east to west, you gain an hour of sleep almost every other night. If that isn’t heaven, what is?

[Or not]


Of course, there are some downsides to a TransAtlantic cruise. While the per-day value is very good, overall, a two week cruise is simply going to cost more than one that lasts four to seven days. That means you need more vacation days, and since fewer of those days are actually spent exploring a new destination, it’s not as appealing of an option for more independent-minded travelers. And finally, the higher cost and longer trip length means that the majority group on the cruise will be older travelers and retirees. If that’s a deal-breaker — or the thought of 8 days on open water crossing the Atlantic makes you queasy — a TransAtlantic cruise may not be the best choice for you.