How to Plan a Multi-Generational Cruise for your Family

by Anne Supsic

Published on the Viator Travel Blog on November 12, 2012

Multi-generational travel is quite the buzz word in tourism these days, but it’s really just a fancy term for getting the whole extended family together for a trip. That’s not to say that this is easy though. Planning our 12-person, 3-generation cruise to Bermuda was one of the most difficult projects I’ve ever undertaken (and I was a Project Manager for 25 years!). But the results exceeded every expectation.

Here are eight tips for enjoying a multi-generational trip of your own:

1. Start your planning early

You can easily spend an entire year preparing for a trip like this. By starting early, you allow plenty of time to work through all the issues and assess the level of commitment from your family. In our case, everyone was enthusiastic from the start, but we still had to deal with different travel styles, school and work schedules, and various personal concerns (including fear of flying). Do not underestimate the work required – an extended family trip entails a Herculean planning effort that will often feel as if you are herding cats.

2. Choose your destination wisely

At the dock in Bermuda. 
Photo credit: Lorraine Carey

There are lots of good travel destinations suitable for large family groups from island getaways to Disney World. We considered them all but finally settled on a cruise to Bermuda.The island of Bermuda had an immediate appeal for us with its low-key family-oriented character and its location close to our eastern seaboard.

Cruising offered some obvious advantages: plenty of activities for everyone and no worries about planning meals for our tribe of twelve. Plus in our case, we were able to avoid air travel since our cruise departed from Cape Liberty, New Jersey about 100 miles from our home. But other, more lasting, benefits only became apparent after we were onboard the ship.

3. Obtain commitments and get your documents in order




Obtain commitments and get your documents.
 Photo credit: Frank Supsic

Once you have chosen a destination, you need to focus on three goals: selecting a date, getting a total commitment from each family member, and obtaining all required documents for everyone. Be sure to solicit feedback when you set your date – you will need to consider school calendars, work schedules, and personal preferences.

If you are traveling outside the country, a top priority will be making sure that everyone has a passport. This effort alone took us almost six months. As an additional safeguard, we stored all the documents in our home–didn’t want anyone showing up on departure day sans passport!

Another important consideration is whether your group includes minor children traveling without both their parents–a common occurrence in today’s ‘modern families.’ When one parent takes a minor child out of the country, it is a good idea to obtain a notarized Letter of Parental Consent from the missing parent. Sample Letters of Parental Consent are available online at websites such as Single Parent Travel. In addition, if the child’s last name is different from the last name of the parent with whom they are traveling, you must bring the child’s birth certificate (to prove the link between parent and child via legal documentation).

Note that a Consent Letter signed by both parents and a Medical Authorization are also recommended for grandparents taking a minor child out of the country.

And don’t forget to purchase Trip Insurance. We bought our trip insurance through the cruise line to ensure that if one family member had an emergency, we could cancel the trip for the whole gang. As part of gaining commitment, it is critical that you explain to your family that trip insurance only covers true emergencies–no last minute take backs allowed!

4. Keep up the enthusiasm



Land of the 'Onions' viewed from Gibbs Lighthouse.
Photo credit: Ben Corbin

During the long months before your trip, you can keep up the enthusiasm by sharing tidbits of trip information with your family. Prior to our cruise, we sent ‘Cruise Countdown’ emails to our crew, preparing them by discussing topics such as shipboard amenities (e.g. three swimming pools and a rock climbing wall) and interesting facts about Bermuda, like the islanders referring to themselves as ‘Onions.’

Another idea is to give the little ones trip-oriented gifts for birthdays or holidays. Snorkeling equipment and laminated fish identification cards were perfect for our soon-to-be beach bums. But the best pre-trip present, for any age group, is a travel journal. Not only does journaling develop writing skills but it helps you to capture your impressions and relive your experiences creating the most cherished souvenir of all.

5. Provide transportation



Riding in luxury in our executive van.
Photo credit: Frank Supsic

You can minimize the risk of late arrivals (and save yourself some major stress) by providing all transportation. The best way to simplify the transport issue is to contact a limousine service. Have all family members meet at one location and then proceed to your departure point (i.e. airport or cruise port) in one vehicle.

For our trip to the pier in New Jersey, I arranged for an executive van to transport all of us in style. Everyone gathered at our home well ahead of time (with a home cooked breakfast providing an added incentive). Some even arrived the night before to get a jump on the festivities. Then on the morning of our departure, we all climbed into the van for the ride to the ship. This was a practical solution, and a fun way to kick off our adventure.

6. Balance your time



Taking the challenge of the ship's rock climbing wall.
Photo credit: Frank Supsic

The secret to a successful multi-generational trip is finding a balance between individual and group time. You don’t want to suffocate your family members with constant togetherness; it’s important to give each person some room to breathe. One of the many advantages of cruising was that our group had the run of the ship with a remarkable array of activities for every taste from miniature golf to ice skating or ping pong. However, it’s also a good idea to build in some time together. In our case, we had reserved seating in the Main Dining Room each night so we could enjoy one family meal together every day. This was a real treat and gave everybody a chance to exchange stories and catch up on the day’s happenings.

To provide a basic structure for the trip, I created a one-page ‘Bermuda Schedule’ that I distributed to everyone. This simple schedule outlined the key events for each day, such as when we would dock in Bermuda, details on prearranged excursions, and a reminder to be back on board by 3:30 p.m. on the day the ship sailed for home! The schedule also included our 6:00 p.m. family dinner time and a list of each family’s cabin numbers.

7. Find the perfect excursions



Idyllic beaches of Bermuda's South Shore.
Photo credit: Lorraine Carey

We thought Bermuda was an ideal location for a family group because this small island is easy to get around and yet offers plenty of activities for every age and interest. Of course the beaches are the primary draw, but the younger set can also explore an underground cave, check out historical reenactments in St George, or roam around an old British fort. Active types may want to hike the Bermuda Railway Trail or spend an afternoon on the golf course, while the more sedate can browse through the Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art or wander the beautiful Botanical Gardens.

For our two days in Bermuda, we scheduled a snorkeling outing as our one group activity, and we also gave each family the option of one excursion on their own. Two of our couples opted for horseback riding along the beach while the rest of us rented a minivan for an island tour. Later that day, we all ended up on the South Island beaches reveling in the talcum-soft pink sand and the crystalline blue waters.

8. Relax and enjoy



Relax and enjoy!
Photo credit: Sarah Pereira

The reward for all your hard work will be having your whole family gathered around you. For me, standing together on the deck of that ship for the first time (feeling relieved and amazed that everyone was there) will always rank near the top of my ‘great moments in life’ list. And that was just the beginning. The best thing about a multi-generational family adventure is the opportunity for day-after-day togetherness (without the distractions of hectic schedules and handheld electronics). Like us, your utmost joy will probably be simply watching your family enjoying each other.

We could never have predicted how much our family would love being on a ship. There is something magical about being surrounded by nothing but the endless rippling sea. Our greatest pleasures were the simplest ones. Eating dinner together each night was a delight, and the hot tub became a favorite after-dinner hangout. The helipad served as our very own ‘stargazing central’ – a perfect spot at the bow of the ship where aspiring astronomers and ardent romantics could witness a starry, starry night (with no competing man-made lighting).

Our family voyage was not a perfect trip – toilets overflowed and choppy water thwarted our plans for snorkeling over a shipwreck. But it was a perfect family experience. My husband and I have traveled all over the world, and this was our best trip ever.

Photos may not be used without permission.

– Anne Supsic

10 More of the World's Most Fascinating Cemeteries

By Anne Supsic

Published on Bootsnall.com on October 25, 2012

What is this fascination with cemeteries? Is it curiosity about what comes next or a desire to understand those who lived before us? If you suffer from this obsession with the great beyond, you are not alone. Our “affliction” even has a name: taphophilia – which means an interest in cemeteries and gravestone art. I like to believe that we are just thinking ahead – maybe we want to get a jump on that future “meet and greet.” As novelist Dean Koontz wrote, “The dead are merely the countrymen of my future.”

Last year’s article on this subject, 12 of the World’s Most Fascinating Cemeteries, elicited a lot of comments, and many of you offered up your own favorite burial grounds. So this year, I have assembled a second list of dead zones as recommended by BootsNall readers. And the results are…

1.  Merry Cemetery in Sapanta, Romania

The Merry Cemetery sparkles like a colorful garden with distinctive blue crosses decorated with brightly painted pictures representing the life (or sometimes the death) of the deceased. These descriptive crosses create a “picture book” of peasant life depicting scenes such as a man chopping wood, a farmer riding his tractor, a girl leaning over her loom, and a policeman giving one final salute.

First created by Stan Ion Patras in 1935, the crosses stand about 5-feet tall and are often topped with a triangular roof. The crosses feature a painting in the center and a personal epitaph below. The sweet, simple paintings are surrounded by designs in symbolic colors: yellow for fertility, red for passion, green for life, and black for untimely death. However, the dominate color is always blue — the color of hope and freedom, expressing the belief in a better life in the next world. Patras also wrote most of the first-person epitaphs, and the heartfelt words perfectly complement the childlike paintings. His work is still carried on today by a faithful apprentice.

The witty epitaphs can be funny like this one: “Underneath this heavy cross lies my mother-in-law… Try not to wake her up for if she comes back home, she’ll bite my head off.”

Or poignant like this epitaph for a three-year old girl, displayed beneath a painting of her being hit by a car:

“Burn in hell you bloody taxi
That came from Sibiu town
Of all the places in the world
You had to hurtle down
Right by our house, and hit me so
That I was sent to death below
And left my parents full of woe.”

2.  Sleepy Hollow Cemetery in Sleepy Hollow, N.Y.

This cemetery that opened in 1849 was made famous in Washington Irving’s “The Legend of Sleepy Hollow,” and the town is filled with references to the “headless one.” Fittingly, Irving is buried in Sleepy Hollow Cemetery near the setting of his most famous creation. Other famous residents include titans of industry like Andrew Carnegie, Walter Chrysler, and William Rockefeller (his supersized monument looks like a bank).

The infamous are here too with Leona Helmsley, the “Queen of Mean,” topping the list. Leona is buried alongside her late husband, Harry, in a $1.4 million mausoleum boasting a stained-glass panorama of the Manhattan skyline. She and Harry built a real estate empire together, and she became known for her arrogance and abrasiveness. According to a former housekeeper, Leona once said, “Only the little people pay taxes.” Leona was proven wrong in 1989 when she was convicted of federal income tax evasion and sentenced to four years in prison. Clearly not much of a people person, Leona left her fortune of $12 million to her dog, an 8-year-old Maltese named Trouble.

Finally for all you Dark Shadows fans, the 1970’s cult classic House of Dark Shadows was filmed here. In fact, Sleepy Hollow Cemetery’s receiving vault (where bodies are stored prior to burial) snagged a starring role as the crypt of Barnabas Collins.

3.  National Cemetery in Havana, Cuba

Also known as Cementerio de Cristóbal Colón this elegant cemetery named for Christopher Columbus contains more than 500 major mausoleums, chapels, and family vaults. In the late 1800’s, Havana was one of the richest cities in the Caribbean, and this grandiose cemetery incited a competition among the wealthy to out-do one another in honoring their dead.

A magnificent triple-arched entranceway called the “Gate of Peace” leads to broad boulevards lined with elaborate marble sculptures and displaying every conceivable architectural style from Italian Renaissance to Egyptian Revival. The highest monument (75 ft.) is the poignant Monumento a los Bomberos dedicated to the 27 firemen who lost their lives in the Great Fire on May 17, 1890 when gunpowder exploded in a warehouse fire.

The most famous occupant is Doña Amelia, a 23-year-old woman who died giving birth to a stillborn child. Legend has it that she was buried with the child at her feet, but years later when the casket was reopened, the baby was cradled in her mother’s arms. Today Amelia is referred to as “La Milagrosa” (The Miraculous Lady). She is considered a symbol of motherly love, and her gravesite is always strewn with flowers from mothers imploring “La Milagrosa” for help with their children.

4.  Gallipoli Canakkale War Cemeteries on the Gallipoli Peninsula in Turkey

The Battle of Gallipoli, one of the most tragic episodes of WWI, took place between April and December of 1915. The joint British and French campaign was a failed attempt to take the peninsula and open up a supply route to Russia. The fighting resulted in horrific losses: 250,000 Turkish soldiers and another 250,000 from Australia, New Zealand, England, and France.
The battle was a defining moment in Turkish history that led the way for Turkish independence. It was also the first major engagement for the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps (ANZAC), and April 25^th, ANZAC Day, is venerated as a national holiday in both countries.

The battlefield area contains 31 cemeteries, including the sorrowful Lone Pine Memorial, where a single pine still stands commemorating the more than 4,900 Australian and New Zealand soldiers who died without gravesites here. At the time of the battle, the Turkish soldiers had chopped down all the trees except for one solitary pine. Although that tree did not survive the furious hand-to-hand combat, ANZAC soldiers collected pine cones, and descendants of the original lone pine now grow in Australia and New Zealand.

A striking three-tiered tower marks the Turkish 57^th Infantry Regiment Memorial. The Turkish troops were out of ammunition and reduced to fighting with only their bayonets when Staff Lieutenant-Colonel Mustafa Kemal (later known as Ataturk) gave this famous command, “I do not order you to attack, I order you to die.” Every soldier in the regiment was either killed or wounded, and none of them survived the war. However, the 57^th did halt the ANZAC advance, and to honor them, no 57^th Regiment has existed in the Turkish army since.

5.  Bonaventure Cemetery in Savannah, Georgia

A burial ground since 1794, Bonaventure Cemetery is a Southern Gothic fantasy come true with sad angels and odd tombstones surrounded by 250-year-old oak trees draped in Spanish moss. Oscar Wilde called the cemetery “incomparable,” and author John Berendt immortalized it in his book Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil (also made into a movie by Clint Eastwood). Residents include the famous songwriter Johnny Mercer, who wrote the lyrics for “Moon River,” and 343 Holocaust victims, whose ashes were recovered from a Nazi labor camp in Germany.

One of the loveliest statues is also the saddest. Poor Corinne Elliott Lawton fell in love with the wrong man, someone her father thought was beneath her. She committed suicide the night before her marriage to a more suitable guy (Daddy’s choice) by jumping off a cliff near the cemetery and drowning in the creek below.

This cemetery also has a reputation as one of the most haunted places in America, and the eeriest gravesites belongs to Little Gracie Watson, a 6-year-old girl who died of pneumonia. The life-size image on her grave will break your heart, and it is said that sometimes you can hear Gracie softly sobbing and calling out for her parents. Visitors have been known to leave toys for Gracie, and some say she cries tears of blood if anyone tries to take her presents. Don’t forget to watch out for the pack of ghost dogs that supposedly chase unwanted visitors out of the cemetery – keep an ear out for vicious barking and the sounds of running paws!

6.  Mt. Hope Cemetery in Rochester, N.Y.

Mt. Hope Cemetery is known as one of the most remarkable Victorian cemeteries in America. This peaceful resting place, that blazes with color during autumn, contains 82 mausoleums and 350,000 graves. Trailblazers dominate the list of inhabitants including Susan B. Anthony, Frederick Douglass, Hartwell Carver M.D. (father of the transcontinental railroad), and little known George Seldon, who claims he invented the automobile.

George Seldon designed an internal combustion engine and was granted a U.S. patent for an automobile in 1895, which allowed him to collect royalties from all American automobile companies (even though George had never gone into production). All went well until Henry Ford arrived on the scene, and Henry refused to pay. The result was a 9-year court battle that dominated headlines all across the country – and provided Henry with lots of free publicity for his Model T. George’s patent was eventually overturned on appeal; however, many believe that his remarkable vision prompted the horseless revolution.

7.  Hanging coffins of Sagada, Philippines

Sagada is located in a remote area roughly six hours north of Manila. For 2,000 years, the people in this area have been placing their dead in coffins that hang from the sheer limestone cliffs. Supported by steel bars, the coffins dot the cliffs like barnacles perched at remarkable heights and often in precarious positions.

The unusual Sagada funerary tradition begins when the coffins are carved from hollowed out logs by either the elderly (in anticipation of their deaths) or by family members. After death, the corpse is smoked for five days (to preserve it), and then it is stuffed into the log coffin, often cracking or even breaking bones in the process. The whole works is then hoisted into position on the cliff face.

The odd hanging position may have been intended to elevate the body as close to heaven as possible. Of course eventually the coffins deteriorate and come crashing down to earth.

8.  Mirogoj Cemetery in Zagreb, Croatia

Mirogoj is considered one of Europe’s most beautiful cemeteries, with graceful arcades, stunning green cupolas, and masterpieces of funereal art. The cemetery is known as the Croatian Pantheon because so many famous Croats are buried here. A distinctive feature of Mirogoj is the total lack of segregation – atheists, Jews, Arabs, and Catholics are all buried side-by-side in a remarkable display of diversity that the living might want to emulate.

One of the most famous inhabitants is Dražen Petrovic, Croatia’s greatest basketball player. He was killed when a truck driver in an oncoming lane fell asleep and rammed into his car. Dražen was only 29-years-old when he died, but he is remembered as the “Croatian Mozart” because he turned basketball into an art form.

The best time to visit this cemetery is on All Saints Day, when the people of Zagreb honor those who have passed away by visiting their final home. At twilight, Mirogoj glows in the light of thousands of candles placed on the graves of loved ones.

9.  Cemetery of San Michele in Venice, Italy

Venetians win top honors for the most unusual funeral processions, with flower-covered caskets traveling by boat to the tiny cemetery island of San Michele. With limited space, bodies only stay a few years before the remains are exhumed and stored in an ossuary – unless of course, you are a famous inhabitant like Igor Stravinsky or Ezra Pound, who have both been honored with permanent residency.

A funeral in Venice usually begins with a mass followed by a somber walk to the waiting barge, where the casket and all the flowers are loaded for one final voyage. Mourners, dressed in black, trail the funeral barge in water taxis as the body makes its way over the waves to the cemetery island.If you come here, be aware that the Cemetery of San Michele is a functioning cemetery, where most of the burials are recent and grieving families far outnumber tourists.

10.  Abney Park Cemetery in Stoke Newington near London

Abney Park is one of the so called “Magnificent Seven” London cemeteries built in the 19^th century to alleviate overcrowded burial grounds within the city limits. The park was designed as a unique combination of cemetery and arboretum, with 2,500 varieties of trees and shrubs – all properly labeled and arranged in alphabetical order.

Today, the park is unkempt and overgrown, creating a riotously romantic atmosphere – a real taphophile delight. An 1840 Gothic chapel, the first nondenominational chapel in Europe, lies abandoned after a fire destroyed the interior. The hauntingly beautiful outer shell is surrounded by dilapidated headstones and vine-covered tombs, epitomizing the phrase “dust to dust.”

One of the most moving monuments is the Blitz Memorial, listing the names of the Stoke Newington residents who were killed on October 13, 1940 when a German bomb hit a crowded air raid shelter. Most of the people who had sought safety here were killed, including many Jews, some of whom had escaped from the Nazis.

Photos by: premus, Simply Abbey, zoonabar, laszlo-photo, Redden-McAllister, Gruenemann, The Dilly Lama, Panoramas, Rui Ornelas, Oliver N5

7 Ways to Experience the Best of Sicily

by Anne Supsic

Published on Viator Travel Blog on September 10, 2012

Mention Sicily and what usually comes to mind is ‘Godfather’ Marlon Brando growling, ‘I’m gonna make him an offer he can’t refuse.’ But Sicily is much more than the mob, and the notion of ‘family’ extends well beyond the Costa Nostra—it might even include you.

Here are 7 reasons why a visit to Sicily may be hard for you to refuse:

1. Fascinating Cities

Magnificent mosaics of the Cappella Palatina
in Palermo's Norman Palace

If you take the overnight ferry from Naples to Palermo (an ideal way to travel to Sicily and an adventure in itself), your boat will glide into Palermo, providing a first glimpse of Sicily as the sun rises over the surrounding mountains. Palermo is Sicily’s historic heart, and a hodgepodge of architecture reflects that history which is a story of one occupation after another, including all the major Mediterranean players from the Greeks and Romans to the Arabs, Normans, and Italians. But none of these unwanted visitors could undermine local pride, and even today, people consider themselves Sicilians first and Italians second.

Palermo is known as a chaotic city, but it’s worth braving the terrifying traffic to enjoy some of Sicily’s finest sights such as the splendid 12th c. Byzantine mosaics—colorful designs created with tiny pieces of glass specially crafted to reflect light. The most famous mosaics are found just outside of town in Monreale Cathedral where every inch of the upper walls and ceiling are covered with mosaic ‘pictures,’ including well-known Bible stories like Jacob’s Ladder, and Noah’s Ark, and a more obscure (but intriguing) one called ‘Drunken Noah in the Vineyard.’ The Cappella Palatina located within Palermo’s Norman Palace is another favorite mosaic treasure trove. Smaller and better lit than Monreale, the intensely colored mosaics sparkle in this intimate space making you feel as if you just walked into a jewelry box.

For a more down-to-earth experience, the Catacombs at Convento dei Cappuccini offer a gruesome collection of some 8,000 skeletal bodies. The dead are propped up in niches along the walls, and the best-dressed dudes are decked out in hats, ties, jackets, gloves, and even shoes!
Sicily’s second largest city Catania is often described as gritty—a city of faded glory with beautiful baroque buildings (many sporting a good coating of graffiti), and a good place to keep a watchful eye on your belongings. Having survived earthquakes and volcanic eruptions, as one guidebook puts it, ‘The most amazing thing about Catania is that it is still here.’

Catania is renowned for its fish, and La Pescheteria (the fish market) has a theatrical ambience. A tiered upper street functions almost like a balcony overlooking the boisterous market below. Old men gather here, leaning over a railing to observe and assess the daily performance. The fish vendors try to outshout each other, filling the air with 100+ decibel level Sicilian as they deftly wield foot long machetes to delicately filet fresh fish for their clients.

2. Remarkable Ancient History

Idyllically located Greek ruins at Segesta

The Greeks arrived in Sicily in 800 B.C., bearing gifts of great wealth along with art and architecture, and of course, magnificent Greek temples. Today, Sicily contains some of the best Greek ruins anywhere—even better than many of the ruins in Greece itself.

The Valley of the Temples is a good example: Agrigento was a major settlement during Greek’s Golden Age, and a series of 5th c. Greek temples line the ridge outside of the modern town. These majestic structures comprise one of the most important archaeological sites in the world. Stately Doric columns still stand tall, and the nearly intact Temple of Concord is considered second only to the Parthenon in Athens.

Another impressive temple is the unfinished temple at Segesta, a Greek gem idyllically situated on a mountainside surrounded by fields that come alive with colorful yellow and purple wildflowers in the spring. Segesta exudes an aura of mystery—perhaps because its history is largely unknown. No one knows why the temple was left unfinished (a roof was never added and the pillars were never fluted), or who the original builders were, although some believe they were Trojans exiled after the ill-fated Trojan War.

3. Charming Small Towns

Medieval castle at Erice

Sicily boasts a broad selection of sweet, small towns including the medieval village of Erice sitting on a rock-like mountain almost half a mile above sea level. The best viewpoint is from the medieval castle on the outermost tip of this mountain perch. A Temple to Athena once stood here, and much of the castle’s stone comes from this original temple. The sublime view encompasses green valleys, craggy mountains, and the brilliant blue Med gleaming in the distance.

Another small town favorite is Cefalù, the most popular resort on the northern coast of Sicily—a small town of narrow, winding streets sitting between the sea and a towering rock called ‘La Rocco.’ For a perfect day in Cefalù, eat lunch in the incredibly scenic main square sitting with the stunning stone cathedral in front of you and La Rocco looming in the background. After lunch browse the delightful shops and walk along the rocky coastline.

Ragusa is one of Sicily’s famous Baroque hill towns. The entire town was destroyed by an earthquake in 1693, but it was completely rebuilt in the latest style of the time, and the flowery, ornate buildings represent the best of 18th c. Sicilian architecture. Ragusa is actually divided into two towns separated by a deep ravine: Ragusa, the upper ‘modern’ town, and Ragusa Ibla, the lower old town. A series of steep stone staircases link the two providing a terrific walking opportunity with magnificent views at every turn.

4. The Magic of Ortigia

Magical Ortigia

Sicily has more than her share of magical places, but the tiny island of Ortigia, located at the southern end of the city of Siracusa, tops my list. I was hooked from the moment I rolled my wheeled luggage over the cobblestone streets into the atmospheric old town, and a fisherman repairing his nets called out a hearty ‘Bienvenutu a Ortigia’ (welcome to Ortigia).

Ortigia’s combination of bright blue sea and old world stonework creates a dreamy Venice-like ambience. The narrow lanes are lined with former palaces adorned with elaborate stone carved windows and delicate wrought iron balconies. The Piazza di Duomo, perhaps the most beautiful plaza in all of Sicily, boasts a lovely Baroque church that was once a Greek Temple of Minerva and still retains some of her ancient columns.

One of the most unusual sights in Ortigia is the Bagno Ebraico, Hebrew ritual baths dating back to 75 AD. The baths were in use until 1492 when Jews were expelled from Sicily. At that time, the banished Jewish community blocked the entrance to the baths with rubble in order to protect the sacred site. No one knew the baths existed until 1991 when renovations at the hotel next door revealed the old subterranean stairway. Still fed by natural springs, this is a mystical place where the devout once descended into rock-hewn pools—invoking a special prayer with each step.

5. Incredible Natural Beauty

Tiny Sicily abounds in natural splendor from the azure blue sea that is never far from view to the dramatic backdrop of interior mountain ranges. Fragrant orchards of orange and lemon trees lend both color and scent to this island that is truly bedda, the Sicilian word for beautiful.

Appealing spots include the resort town of Taormina perched on a mountaintop between Mt. Etna and the sea, and the small islands surrounding Sicily like the Aeolians, an archipelago of seven individual volcanic islands. But Sicily’s most respected natural wonder is the incomparable Mt. Etna.

Mt. Etna is the largest active volcano in Europe and has the longest history of documented eruptions in the world. Locals refer to Mt. Etna as the ‘good volcano’ because, unlike Mt. Vesuvius on the mainland that tends to explode without warning, Mt. Etna possesses better self-control emitting regular, lesser eruptions to relieve internal pressures. And when the lava flows, it moves very slowly giving people plenty of time to evacuate. During a recent eruption, one villager grabbed a lawn chair, a bowl of pasta, and a glass of wine—then he positioned himself in a prime spot to watch the lava dribble through his orchard and down the mountainside toward the ocean.

6. Fabulous Food

Typical Sicilian antipasto platter

Sicilian fare seems to take its cue from the colors of the Italian flag: red for tomatoes, white for garlic, and green for olive oil. But Sicilian cuisine is hardly that simplistic. Each of Sicily’s conquerors left their mark on the land—and in the kitchen. Sicilian cuisine glories in olives from the Greeks, pasta from the Romans, and major Arabic contributions like artichokes, eggplants, and sugar cane.

Antipasto delights with carponata (a uniquely Sicilian combo of eggplant, capers, olives, and tomatoes), and other veggies all steeped in the very best Sicilian olive oil. Heavenly pastas include Pasta alla Norma, a magnificent eggplant dish named for the heroine of an opera by Sicily’s favorite son, Vincenzo Bellini. Fresh fish is another treat including the simply prepared pesce spade (swordfish) that is thinly sliced, grilled with lemon and olive oil, and topped with piquant Sicilian capers. And even if you have sworn off sweets, ‘forgedda bout it,’ no one can resist the canolli and the lovely lime green cassata, a sugary cake filled with ricotta cream and topped with candied fruits.

No Sicilian meal is complete without wine, and you can choose from the up-and-coming red wines made from the Nero d’Avolo grape or stick with the traditional sweet Marsala. Known as a ‘healthy drink,’ Marsala wine became quite popular during America’s prohibition years. Sicily exported thousands of crates of the stuff to ailing Americans where it was marketed under the medicinal-sounding name ‘Marsala Tonic.’ The 18% alcohol remedy actually carried a label that read ‘Approved by the U.S. Treasury. Dosage: A small glassful twice a day.’

7. Incomparable Friendliness

Perhaps Sicilians are so friendly because they have a long history of welcoming strangers, or maybe living on a small island makes a person look forward to new faces. Whatever the reason, Sicilians surprised me with their heartfelt friendliness almost every day.

During my time in Sicily, I tried more than once to buy a single lemon, but the fruit vendors refused my money saying, ‘A gift, a gift!’ One day in Palermo, I conjured up my best broken Italian and asked a tiny elderly lady for directions to a bus stop. She not only led me in the right direction, but escorted me across a busy Palermo intersection. (No doubt she feared I would end up as roadkill if I attempted the crossing myself.) I watched in amazement as this little old lady walked right out into the speeding traffic, patting the air with her hand to halt the onslaught of vehicles. Miraculously, the traffic parted for her (and for me glued to her side) like Moses parting the Red Sea!

And in the town of Marsala, I was chatting with a young wine shop owner named Allessandro when he decided to lock up his wine shop and walk me to his favorite restaurant. I protested that he would lose business, but he said, ‘It is not good to work too much.’

Sicily is a perfect mix of ancient ruins, remarkable food, and gorgeous landscapes. But the real beauty of Sicily lies within—in her people and their special brand of genuine hospitality. As the Sicilian proverb says, ‘Tutti semu sutta lu celu.’ (We’re all under the same sky.) And nowhere does this feel more true than in Sicily.

Photos are courtesy of Frank Supsic and may not be used without permission.

Confessions of a Travel Fiction Junkie

by Anne Supsic

Published on Bootsnall.com on July 20, 2012

I’m not sure that travel fiction is even a recognized literary genre, and I doubt anyone would confuse it with great literature. But it is great fun – especially for those of us who dream of faraway places whenever we close our eyes at night. My travel fiction favorites have two prerequisites: foreign settings and protagonists I come to think of as friends.

I go in search of these perfect fictional companions either prior to a trip to set the stage or afterwards to savor the memories. I look for books with a strong sense of place and intelligent writing providing insight and an insider’s perspective. Most of all, I look for a fast-paced read – usually a mystery or thriller – the kind of book that makes an overseas flight, well, fly by. I also prefer books that are part of a series because when I finally find what I like, why settle for just one?

Here are the stars in my Travel Fiction firmament:

Paris’s Aimée Leduc

Created by Cara Black, private investigator Aimée Leduc careens around the arrondissements of Paris on her pink Vespa, chasing down secrets from the past and bringing brigands to justice. Look for titles like Murder in the Marais, Murder in the Bastille – you get the idea. The world of Aimée Leduc is inhabited by her partner René Friant, who is a dwarf, her gruff godfather Commissaire Morbier, and a Bichon Frise named Miles Davis. However, the real star of the series is the city of light. Francophile that I am, I often read these books twice: once for the plot and a second time for the Parisian ambience.

Aimee is gutsy, impulsive, and slightly slutty in her vintage couture, Louboutin heels, and signature Chanel Red lipstick. In short, she is my adult version of Nancy Drew.

Venice’s Commissario Guido Brunetti

Donna Leon’s Brunetti is an anomaly — a crime fighter who is also a family man with two children and a rather annoyingly outspoken wife Paola. The action follows Brunetti into marvelously musty palaces and down shadowy alleyways of a Venice unknown to the average tourist. However, some of my favorite scenes take place in the Brunetti home, especially when the whole family meets at lunchtime to devour a multi-course Italian feast (after which Brunetti often enjoys a siesta).

At work, Brunetti is surrounded by memorable characters like his clueless boss Vice-Questore Patta and Patta’s inimitable secretary Signorina Elettra who never met a computer system she couldn’t hack into. It’s hard to beat a series set in one of the world’s loveliest locales. And who can resist a hero who rides the vaporetto to work?

Edinburgh’s Detective Inspector John Rebus

This series by Ian Rankin offers plots as dark as a rainy night in Edinburgh, proving there is another, grittier, side to this famed Scottish city best known for its famous Military Tattoo (a bagpiper music festival Rebus detests). John Rebus is the quintessential crime-solving loner haunted by past victims and unresolved cases. The series is exceptionally well-written interweaving current events (like the G8 conference), Scottish history, and plenty of Edinburgh pubs, particularly Rebus’s favorite watering hole, “The Ox.” Organized crime also plays a major role, epitomized by Rebus’s complicated involvement with the gangster Gerald “Big Ger” Cafferty.

Rebus’s one lasting relationship is with his young female partner: the faithful, though often frustrated, Siobhan Clarke. She is one of my favorite sidekicks, and one of the joys of reading these books is watching this unlikely friendship develop.

Sicily’s Inspector Salvo Montalbano

Andrea Camilleri’s Inspector Montalbano series is often laugh-out-loud funny. Located on the southwest coast of Sicily, these mysteries serve up lots of mayhem, with a touch of the mafia and a huge helping of magnificent Sicilian cuisine. The intuitive Montalbano never misses even the tiniest clue. He’s an obsessive crime solver who lets nothing get in the way of his investigation – that is except for a good meal which he relishes with regularity.

A complex guy, Salvo never hesitates to bend the rules, suffers from erratic mood swings, and loves to bust the chops of his subordinates. Speaking of subordinates, I can’t get enough of Catarella, the goofy police station desk clerk who is a master at mangling telephone messages.

One caveat: avoid this series if you are trying to diet – the food descriptions will make you go mad.

Bangkok’s Sonchai Jitpleecheep

John Burdett’s protagonist Sonchai Jitpleecheep wins top honors for detective with the most unpronounceable name, but also prevails in the category of most enlightened gumshoe. Sonchai, who may be the only honest cop in Bangkok, is a devout Buddhist trying desperately to follow his path. Sonchai is the son of a Thai prostitute and an unknown American serviceman, and the plots frequently highlight the contrasts between these two very different cultures.

The city of Bangkok dominates both the storylines and many of the titles (Bangkok 8, Bangkok Tattoo, Bangkok Haunts). This is a series of exotic tales providing a unique, almost surreal vision of one of Asia’s most intriguing cities. Note that these books are not for the fainthearted: the plots are heavily involved with the seamy sex trade, and the violence is graphic and grisly.

Rome’s Jonathan Argyll and Flavia di Stefano

Sadly, Iain Pears wrote only seven of these novels before he moved on to more serious fiction, but it’s interesting to see how his writing talent evolved. Set primarily in Rome, the series is easy to identify with titles like The Raphael Affair and The Bernini Bust. Jonathan, a rather flaky British art historian/dealer, chases down art thieves with the unflappable Flavia, an officer in Rome’s Art Theft Squad. The art thievery is particularly ingenious, and Jonathan and Flavia make a wonderfully appealing couple. In fact, half the fun is watching their romance flower.

These books are light-hearted mysteries serving up a tantalizing concoction of art and corruption – sounds like the essence of Italy to me.

Oslo’s Harry Hole

Scandinavian fiction tends to be dominated by that girl with the body art, but make room for Harry Hole (pronounced Ha-leh) of the Oslo Crime Squad. Author Jo Nesbo has created a brilliant but fabulously flawed detective who occasionally loses his struggle with alcoholism and constantly battles for a life outside of his all-consuming job.

Harry has a complex, on again/off again relationship with the lovely Rakel and a strong fatherly attachment to her son, Oleg. However, Harry has the dubious distinction of being the only Norwegian to ever catch (and kill) a serial killer, and bad guys find him irresistible.

These books are complex thrillers with intricate plots – expect lots of twists and turns. You may feel like you need a scorecard to keep track of the characters, but hang in there, Harry is worth the effort. Note that some books in this series are not currently available in the U.S., but I am betting that will change soon.


Photos by: wlappe, Jikael, Jordan S Hatcher, Bart X, Bruno, Moyan_Brenn, Moyan_Brenn

 

7 Sweet Treats of Paris

by Anne Supsic

Published on Viator Travel Blog on June 22, 2012

Paris has always been known as a city of romance, but the city of light is also the place for romancing your sweet tooth! The French seem dedicated to enjoying the best of everything, and food is no exception. We all need the occasional petit plaisir (small pleasure) and Parisians in particular are connoisseurs of the sweet treat. Here are seven scrumptious goodies that no visitor to Paris should miss out on:

1.  Pain au Chocolat

Pain au Chocolat

Pain au Chocolat. Photo credit: cowlet via Flickr.

The literal translation of pain au chocolat is chocolate bread, but this favorite Parisian breakfast treat goes way beyond that description. No one seems to know where pain au chocolat originated although it is made from the same dough as a croissant. Some think the addition of the chocolate was one of those happy accidents in some French kitchen.

This marvelous concoction of pastry and sweet chocolate is made by layering sheets of buttered dough to create flaky folds, and of course, the pièce de résistance is the skinny stick (or two) of special, slow-melting chocolate tucked in the middle! Pains aux chocolats are best eaten right out of the oven when the chocolate is warm and soft. They are available in every Parisian boulangerie so you can make it your mission to try as many as possible.

2.  Dark Chocolate

Dark chocolate

Dark chocolate. Photo courtesy of Frank Supsic and may not be used without permission.

Paris is considered the dark chocolate capital of the planet and her 300 chocolate shops are sure to satisfy the most gluttonous (I prefer discerning) chocoholic. Although you would never know it from the taste, French chocolate is the least sweetened chocolate in the world. Leave it to the French to create a fabulous, less fattening chocolate!

You can browse the chocolate stores on your own or take a fun Chocolate Walking Tour. Some of the best spots for sampling Paris’s finest chocolate include:

• Michael Cluizel who processes his own cacao beans.
• La Maison du Chocolat, an elegant establishment that feels as if you are walking into a fine jewelry store.
• Debauve & Gallais, the oldest choco-shop in Paris—Marie-Antoinette bought her wafer-thin chocolate pistoles here.
• Patrick Roger, Paris’s hottest chocolatier of the moment, who is considered a chocolate artist. For Mother’s Day, Monsieur Roget created a necklace any Mom would love—chocolate ‘pearls’ made with dark chocolate and a sprinkling of Sicilian pistachio nuts.

3.  Ice Cream

Ice Cream

Ice Cream. Photo credit: of Rinat Abdullin via Flickr.

For the best ice cream in Paris (some say in the world) head for Berthillon on Isle St Louis where you can join the almost constant queue. (Just don’t arrive on a Monday or Tuesday when the shop is closed.) The Berthillon family has been serving up their famous homemade ice cream since the 1950’s and the business is still family-owned, relying on word-of-mouth rather than expensive marketing. The ice cream is all natural and the fruity sorbets are created with real fruit. Favorite flavors include the incomparable Chocolat Noir and the Fraise des Bois (wild strawberry). Adults have been known to jump up and down after one lick of Berthillon’s creamy delights.

Other top spots for ice cream include Raimo, one of the oldest ice cream shops in Paris, and Deliziefollie for fantastico Italian-style gelato.

4.  Salted Caramels

Salted Caramels

Salted Caramel in chocolate. Photo credit: rvacapinta via Flickr.

Who would have thought that adding salt to caramels would cause such a taste sensation? Henri Le Roux dedicated himself to developing a candy no one had ever tasted before. As a native of the region of Brittany, Henri decided to make use of the salted Breton butter that many consider the best in the world—a crunchy butter that contains large, coarse grains of salt. In the early 1970’s after three months of experimentation, the salted caramel, Caramel-Beurre-Salé, was born. The candy has been such a huge success that Henri even registered the brand name CBS®.

The best place in Paris to buy these luscious indulgences is at the candy shop A l’Etoile d’Or. Owner Denise Acabo is passionate about her products and one of the friendliest shop owners you are likely to meet anywhere. Madame Acabo is quite a character and impossible to miss—just look for the plump, older woman in pigtails wearing a school girl’s uniform!

5.  Patisserie

Patisserie

Patisserie. Photo courtesy of Frank Supsic and may not be used without permission.

One of the greatest temptations of Paris lies behind the display windows of the ubiquitous patisseries. More like art galleries than mere bakery shops, these pastry palaces entice you with a showcase of their most mouthwatering tarts, éclairs, and multi-layered mille-feuille. The French expression for window shopping is faire du lèche-vitrine which literally means licking the windows, and nowhere is this phrase more apropos than when you are gazing through the glass at an alluring selection of Paris’s prettiest pastries.

With hundreds of Parisian patisseries, you will never be far from your next sinful pleasure. As the famous French Chef Alain Ducasse once said, “Desserts are like mistresses. They are bad for you, so if you have one, you might as well have two.” Pastries by impresarios like Gerard Mulot and Pierre Hermé(who is actually called the ‘Picasso of Pastry’) may make you weep.

6.  Hot Chocolate

Hot chocolate

Hot chocolate. Photo courtesy of renee_mcgurk via Flickr.

Chocolate is at its most decadent when served velvety hot. Trust me—Parisian hot chocolate is divine and light-years beyond Ovaltine! The most famous place to sip your chocolate is at Angelina, a Parisian institution. This elegant tea room with its charming Belle Époque interior has been in operation since 1903. You can even sit at the same table where Coco Chanel regularly splurged on a cup of the sweet, creamy hot chocolate called ‘L’africaine.’

Or you can try my favorite hot choco spot: the tea room above Jean Paul Hévin’s chocolate shop. The décor is somewhat austere, especially when compared with the opulent Angelina. But Jean Paul is one of Paris’s favorite chocolatiers, and eating lunch here offers the opportunity to drink delectable hot chocolate while devouring one of Jean Paul’s incredible desserts—like the Caracas, a mind-bending three layers of chocolate, biscuit, and mousse. To add to the fun, each afternoon Jean Paul dishes up a different version of his hot chocolate every hour. At noon, the daring can try a cup flavored with oysters. Or the more romantically inclined may want to hold off until 4:00 p.m. for the ‘hot chocolate aphrodisiac with ginger and spices.’

7.  Macarons

Macarons

Macarons. Photo courtesy of Frank Supsic and may not be used without permission.

Macarons, not to be confused with macaroons, are actually delicate sandwich cookies made with two almond wafers and a sweet, creamy filling. The magic of the macaron is the juxtaposition of a thin outer crust, a moist cookie, and a satiny center. They look like tiny, brightly-colored hamburger buns, but don’t let the size fool you—these little gems are packed with flavor!

The history of this unique treat is subject to dispute, but a simple macaron cookie was probably first introduced in Italy about 1533 by a chef of Catherine de Medici. In the early 1900’s, the folks at Café Laduree created the Parisian-style macaron by doubling up on the cookies and adding the sweet filling in the center. Café Laduree remains a favorite spot to sample macarons along with more recent contender Pierre Hermé who is known for his imaginative flavors like the ‘Mogador,’ a mixture of milk chocolate and passion fruit.

- Anne Supsic

Unforgettable Characters from Around the World

by Anne Supsic

Published on Bootsnall.com on June 20, 2012

It’s great to return from a long trip, your mind reeling from new experiences, anxious to share everything you saw and did with family and friends. I have a map of the world on my office wall, and one of the first things I do is add a couple of pushpins to mark my latest “travel conquests.”

But travel is so much more than bragging rights and pushpins on a map. The greatest gifts of travel are the people that you meet; the unforgettable characters who leave an indelible mark on your soul. My life is richer because of chance encounters with people who shared their lives with me and helped me to see the world a little differently.

Here are the stories of six of my unforgettable characters:

The grass is always greener

My husband and I attended a Thai cooking school in Chiang Mai taught by a young Thai woman named “Nice.” We were fortunate to be part of a lively group of food lovers, all Europeans with representation from the U.K., the Netherlands, and Spain. Nice taught us the secrets of spicy red curry paste and introduced us to the wonderful tanginess of the Kaffir lime, but she also gave us some insight into the Thai mindset. Just before we began to eat our delicious creations, one of our fellow students asked Nice for the Thai equivalent of “bon appetite.” In a classic case of Western pleasure seeker meets Eastern realist, she thought for a moment and said, “We don’t have one. We just eat when we are hungry.”

Later, Nice told us that she had recently visited Europe for the first time. Of course, we all wanted to hear her impressions. Surprisingly, one of her most astounding experiences was a visit to the Englischer Garten in Munich, a place famous for the German office workers who regularly sunbathe in the nude at lunchtime. Nice was no prude, so it wasn’t the nudity that had shocked her. What left her totally flabbergasted was that, as she put it, “The people wanted to get brown!”

She could not believe that Westerners laid out in the sun to soak up the rays, much less used “browning devices” like tanning beds and tanning creams. Watching our puzzled white faces, Nice explained that in Thailand, women routinely used whitening creams and did everything they could to protect themselves from the sun in order to be as white as possible. Young girls even aspired to work in offices when they grew up so they wouldn’t have to spend their days out in the sun! I guess it must be part of the human condition to always want what you don’t have.

Americans in Avallon

Our arrival in Avallon, France was perfectly timed to visit the weekly market. We stocked up on the usual supply of olives, cheese, bread, and jambon (ham). As we strolled around town, an English-speaking Frenchman approached us and asked how we were enjoying our trip to France. Of course, we responded enthusiastically, and then he asked if we were Americans.

This was 2003 when relations between the U.S. and France had hit an all-time low, when some American restaurants changed their menus to offer “freedom fries” instead of French fries, and all French products were frequently boycotted. In fact, some of our friends had admonished us for choosing France as our vacation destination. And even though France had always been one of our favorite countries, we had to admit we felt uneasy, wondering how the French would receive us.

I gulped and confirmed his hunch that we were indeed Americans. He told us that his parents had always taught him to be grateful to the Americans for liberating France during WWII. And he went on to say that most of the people in Avallon felt the same way he did. It was obvious that this stranger had purposely sought us out to share his feelings. He clearly wanted us to know that despite the heated rhetoric of our governments, we were very welcome here in Avallon. All the fears that I harbored about being accepted in France vanished like the croissants on our hotel’s breakfast buffet table. Then the Frenchman smiled and placed his hand across his chest as he said, “My heart is always with America.”

Dinner with Giorgio

In 2006, we traveled to Areopoli, a small town in the Mani region of the Greek Peloponnese where we stayed in a 300-year old Mani tower house, a tall stone structure built for defense rather than comfort. The Mani people have a reputation as ferocious fighters, and like a Greek version of the Hatfields and the McCoys, family feuds were common here for centuries. The combative families would retreat to their tower houses and blast each other with whatever ammunition they could find. These feuds could last for decades: the longest one lasted 40 years, and in 1870, the very last feud required intervention by 400 members of the Greek military.

Unfortunately, the bloodshed continued through the Balkan Wars, two World Wars, and various civil uprisings. Just in case we momentarily forgot this history of violence, the first floor of our Mani tower house held a small military museum with a personal collection that included a proud display of two German lugers. Nevertheless, the people of the Mani were very friendly. One evening, our hostess told us that her father, Giorgio, wanted to go to dinner with us (in our car) to a good restaurant. Sure, why not? How could we turn down an 85 year-old freeloader? So off we went with Giorgio nestled in the backseat. Giorgio spoke very little English, but he was good at barking out directions like: “Left,” “Right,” and “Stop!”

The restaurant was actually quite good, and the owners treated us like family (who knows, maybe that was because Giorgio was family!). It was amazing to see all the food the old guy ordered: extra plates of spinach, French fries, tzatiki (yogurt, cucumber, and garlic), and toasted bread. He invited us to share all of his goodies, but the three of us hardly made a dent.

Dinner conversation was a bit sketchy because of the language problem, but Giorgio did let us know (via broken English and gestures) that he loved America and Americans. However, he also made it very clear that he thought George “Boooosh” was crazy for invading Iraq. (Perhaps Giorgio had seen enough violence for one lifetime.) With so little shared language, I could only reply as I often do when placed in this situation. I shrugged and sighed as I said, “Politics!” This response seemed to satisfy Giorgio, and he chuckled as he reached for his enormous doggie bag of leftovers. Apparently, he had accomplished his mission, and our meal was over. We made our farewells, loaded Giorgio into the backseat, and headed for home.

The story of Nak

We hired Nak, a 39-year-old Cambodian tour guide, to take us to the outlying temples of Angkor Wat. He looked younger than his years, and when I asked him a question about the Pol Pot era, I never expected to hear that he had actually lived through those times. Nak explained that when the Khmer Rouge came to power, he was a young boy attending school in the city of Siem Reap with 850 other pupils. By the end of the Khmer Rouge regime, Nak was the only student to survive.

As we bumped along pot-holed roads, passing half-naked village children who stared at us from the roadside, Nak proceeded to share unthinkable stories of hardship and horrors including this one. Nak and his parents were living in a countryside commune working in the rice fields. Conditions were terrible with little food or medical attention. One day, the Khmer Rouge rounded up everyone to issue a new proclamation. An old man took this opportunity to ask the soldiers if the children could have more food. The answer given was to “follow Khmer Rouge.” The old man replied that he did follow Khmer Rouge, but he was worried because so many children (about 1 in 7) were dying. A soldier responded, “I am your boss; you are not my boss.” The old man tried again, “I know you are my boss, but the children are our future. Can’t we help them?” The soldier answered, “I am going to make an example of you.”

The soldier bound the old man’s arms and legs and cut him lightly across the throat just enough to produce a rush of blood but not deep enough to kill him. Whenever the old man lost consciousness, the Khmer Rouge soldier poured salt water on the wound to wake him up. Then, the soldier would cut him again and repeat the process. When the old man finally remained unconscious in spite of the salt water, the soldiers buried the poor man even though he may still have been alive.

At the end of our day together, I thanked Nak for telling us the story of his life, and told him how much I appreciated his willingness to talk about a time that was obviously so painful for him. Nak smiled and said, “I was a lucky boy. I am one out of 850.”

Jorge’s shoes

Easter Island is one of the most isolated places on earth — 2,000 miles from the coast of Chile and over 1,000 miles from Pitcairn Island, its closest neighbor. It’s hard to imagine living so far removed from the rest of the world. After spending some relaxing days admiring the enigmatic stone statues, we were doing some last minute souvenir shopping on the main drag in Hanga Roa — Easter Island’s only town — when a tall, English-speaking islander with a friendly (if somewhat toothless) smile approached us. He asked the usual questions: where we were from and how we liked the island. Eventually, he introduced himself as Jorge and then asked if he could give us $60 to buy him a pair of his favorite shoes from Payless Shoe Stores in the US!

We were startled and more than a bit suspicious of his request. But Jorge explained that while Payless would charge a fortune to ship the shoes to him, we could mail them to him for much less. He had obviously done his homework explaining that the $60 would cover the cost of the shoes ($39.99) and the shipping. He was so trusting and so willing to give us his $60 that we figured why not help the guy out? Jorge gave us his address (which simply consisted of his name and ‘Easter Island, Chile’) plus all the specifics on his shoe size (11 wide), and his preferred shoe style (Hunter Bay). He was wearing a bedraggled pair of the very shoes he wanted to replace (and he wasn’t kidding when he said he needed new ones). We were taking our shoe-buying assignment seriously, so we took a picture of his shoe just to be sure we knew what to buy.

Back home, we found the shoes exactly as he had described, packaged them up, and shipped them off to Easter Island. A few weeks later, a very happy Jorge sent us an email telling us how thrilled he was with his new Payless shoes.

Our lady of the alley

We had just visited the Resistance and Deportation Museum in Besançon, France, and our minds were reeling from powerful images of Nazi atrocities as we walked back into the city. Up ahead, we noticed an older woman taking lots of pictures of a side alley. Not ones to miss a photo op, we hurried toward her, curious to see what was so picture-worthy. The woman spoke to us in a combination of French and broken English, allowing us to piece together her story: when she was a little girl, she had escaped the Nazis by running down this very alleyway. (Unfortunately, her father was not so lucky – he was captured and died in a concentration camp.)

The whole conversation was surreal, especially after having just spent several hours pondering the stories of resistance fighters, collaborators, and concentration camp victims in the twenty-room Resistance Museum. I honestly felt as if we had stepped through a time portal into the past. This woman, who had survived ordeals we could only imagine, passionately wished peace for tout la monde (for all the world). She kissed my hand and rubbed my husband’s cheek. Then she threw her hands up into the air and said, “The sky belongs to all of us.”

All photos are courtesy of Frank Supsic and may not be used without permission.